I tried something different on my 34 years ago. Most of the screws holding the forward hatch were getting loose and, of course, the reason was wet core underneath. I drilled out all of the screw holes (oversized a bit) and dried the core where necessary using a trick taught to me by my West System guru. Take a suitably sized Tupperware container, remove the top (throw it away), and cut a hole in the bottom the size of a small hair dryer nozzle. Place the hairdryer nozzle into the hole you cut, tape it in place with duct tape, tape the hair dryer contraption in place on the deck over the wet core holes, and let it run for a while (low heat setting will prevent it from overheating). I needed to move the contraption around to dry various holes in my case. Once you’re satisfied the core area is sufficiently dry, you can then repair.
What I did differently in this case was, instead of screwing back into cured epoxy (or using plastic anchors), I bought some stainless inserts for machine screws and epoxied them in place. (Yardley product as I recall.) When I was finished, I could unscrew the machine screws to remove the hatch. Because the inserts were epoxied in place and isolated from the core, I didn’t worry much about the seal at the deck after that. It was a lot of extra work (not sure it was worth it), but the forward hatch was solidly connected to the deck and I never had a problem. Matt Wolford C&C 42 Custom From: CnC-List <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 6:39 PM To: CnClist <[email protected]> Cc: Dennis C. <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List installing plastic anchors in fiberglass I'd overbore the holes, coat the wood with neat epoxy (no thickener) using a cotton swab or equivalent then fill with epoxy thickened with microfibers. Redrill and use new screws same size as the original. I don't like using thickened epoxy without coating with neat epoxy first. You don't get as good a bond and you may leave gaps. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Jun 24, 2020, 2:51 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > wrote: Hi Guys, The fiberglass sea good that covers the cabintop window and companionway slider on my 34R is attached with a dozen #8 x 1" wood screws. The holes for these screws penetrate the balsa core of the cabintop and were sealed with white caulk. There is no way to through bolt it. I'm planning to overdrill the holes to 3/4" and fill with Thixo flexible epoxy and then drill the holes to 1/4" to take plastic masonry anchors. The SS wood screws will like these anchors, be removable and the core will be better protected from water penetration. I'm trying to decide between using plastic masonry anchors made for wood screws, or screw in threaded fittings and use machine screws. Or maybe I should drill and tap the epoxy and use machine screws? Any better ideas? Masonry anchors: https://www.kimballmidwest.com/All-Products/Fasteners/Anchors/Tubular-Screw-Anchors/483072 Threaded fittings: https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/thread-insert/self-locking-inserts?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Categories_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLACAT Thanks, Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena Md _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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