Best practice is to run the engine up to temp and then dip the sucker tube to the middle of the sump.
Josh On Fri, Oct 16, 2020, 08:37 CHARLES SCHEAFFER <[email protected]> wrote: > Oil Testing > > Does the oil sample need to be pulled from the very bottom of the sump to > capture the metals there? > > Chuck S > > On 10/16/2020 7:55 AM [email protected] wrote: > > > Hi All, > > > > In a previous life I had to do oil samples on heavy equipment and aircraft > engines (both piston and turbine). Some of these pieces of equipment or > aircraft would run 24/7 so oil samples were taken weekly…(every 100 hours > is a common number for production equipment to be sampled) The oil analysis > would come back from the lab and it would contain information on a variety > of things… the most important thing to the owners and operators of the > equipment was the metal content in the oil. As engines are used (and thus > tend to wea) parts of the engine are “ground off” and wind up in the oil. > By analyzing the metallic content really good analysts could determine > exactly what part inside the engine was breaking down… but usually they > were just looking for the aggregate amount of metal shavings/dust/chips > etc. There is usually some tiny teeny-weeny little bit of metal in the oil > (especially on high-hour engines), but over a certain level or amount of > metal , the managers of the equipment would be concerned and sometimes even > take a piece of equipment out of service and tear the engine down and > rebuild it or replace it. > > > > Another thing they did was determine if there was soot or carbon from the > combustion process, water in the oil, fuel, coolant, dust, dirt, or silica. > All of these were indicative of different problems in the engine. Again, > most tests will come back with some small amount of each depending on how > infinite or precise the sample testing is. As an example if there was > “dirt” or grit, sand, silica etc in the oil, this may indicate bad fuel, > bad fuel filler spout, bad fuel cap, air filter(s), or air filter housing > or hosing. If the sample had coolant in it, then they might look at the > cylinder heads, or if there was soot, valves or rings may be the problem… > all kinds of things can be divined from the oil sample if read by a > knowledgeable person. > > > > Me- I just took the samples, logged the results, and ate lunch 😊 > > > > JP > > > > *From:* Tom Buscaglia <[email protected]> > *Sent:* Thursday, October 15, 2020 5:23 PM > *To:* Stus-List <[email protected]> > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Engine Hours > > > I never knew about the oil testing. Just ordered a test kit...thanks! > > Tom B > > At 03:26 PM 10/15/2020, you wrote: > > This is an interesting, timely and informative thread/discussion. We just > recently bought another boat with a large Diesel engine.The former owner > left extensive and detailed documentation. In that documentation are the > results from engine oil analysis that he performed every year, going back 6 > years. I’m starting to try and educate myself on this and will continue > to do the sampling which comes up this November. My initial take is that it > is important for spotting engine wear/maintenance trends. > > Thanks to listers for all the insights. > > Regards, > Dave > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin > > > On Oct 15, 2020, at 4:18 PM, Josh Muckley <[email protected]> wrote: > > I sample my oil and sent for analysis. Costs $20 but the knowledge of > whether or not the oil is good as well as what else could be wrong with the > engine is invaluable. For anyone who cares about the environmental > impacts, not changing the oil is better for the environment too. I use an > over-sized oil filter and the very best amsoil marine diesel engine oil. > This particular oil has a high TBN of 12. IIRC, TBN stand for total base > number, you know base... The opposite of acid. As acids build up in the > oil the TBN goes down. If the person doing the analysis sees that the > trend suggests the TBN (or any of the oil specs) will be too close to zero > before the next oil change, they modify their recommendations. > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk > > Keeping moisture out of the oil is another key to long life. A block > heater keeps the oil dry, the rings from sticking, the cylinders from > rusting and the boat warm enough to prevent the bilge from freezing. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray%A0>Thanks - Stu > > .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤. > Tom & Lynn Buscaglia > SV Alera > C&C 37+/40 > Vashon Island WA > (206) 463-9200 > www.sv-alera.com > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - > Stu > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
