Richard & All, Thanks for the welcome! Yes, I love my 37! Started a fresh thread to introduce the boat and myself. Thread drift can be a bad habit with me.
Vee berth has original shelves. They are nice, in fact they are great for covered plastic storage boxes placed on edge. They fill that high space efficiently with light stuff. There is still one small, occasional leak from a toe rail above - port side. I haven’t been able to eliminate it - spluged-out butyl? Not a big deal so far. Ceilings were missing from vee berth at time of purchase. Cleaned and sanded inner surface of hull. Appropriate Petit solvent primer with water based EZCabinCoat topcoat. Beige close enough match to C&C‘s off-white. After 2-1/2 years it’s still in very nice shape and cleans well. I really like light in there now. Quarter berth and saloon still have teak ceilings. They are in need of cleaning, light scuffing and teak oil. They will retain a nice patina. 😉 Can’t remember how the ceilings are ultimately attached and I didn’t take photos or notes as that is a minor, “is what it is”, construction detail. 🤔😁 Have yet to learn how to load photos on this site. Hans R S/V Ete’ Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 3, 2021, at 2:24 PM, David Risch via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Ignore the requests for a picture of a Foredeck Cow… > > (Welcome!!) > > From: Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2021 4:22 PM > To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Hans Reinhardt <reinhardt.h...@gmail.com> > Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' > > Hi All, > First post here so I imagine I will have fouled up somehow ... 😱 > Hopefully I will continue to “contribute”, more meaningfully as time goes on. > > The ceilings on my 1982 37 are teak battens (~ 1/4” x 2” + -ish) with beveled > edges laminated to ~3/8“ plywood. Actual dimensions are fuzzy - the memory of > .... 🙄 It’s been awhile. > Screwed and plugged. I can’t remember if there was some sort of hull > spacer/vertical ribband. Newer boats ...? > > As a retired landlubber construction professional I strongly urge people to > explore existing structure thoroughly. Before somehow committing to plans and > timetables based on hopeful thinking. As construction methods change and > as-builts differ always see whatcha already got ... so just rip into it! 😳 > > Note on terminology: One of my brothers was a shipwright and foreman in the > wooden boat mafia so I differentiated myself by refusing to learn all the > arcane stuff. I’m a better sailor than he is ... but > what that says about my skills is debatable. 😉 > > Hans Reinhardt > S/V Ete’ > 1982 C&C 37 > Shilshole Bay, Seattle > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:13 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > You might be correct--but I will know soon when I hopefully remove the bungs > and get a closer look at this 'ceiling'. > > Until then, my guess is that they are not separate battens but a sheet of > teak/something with grooves routed in it to make it look like they are > separate pieces. > > The routed 'grooves' might also allow the single board (if it is indeed a > single board!) to bend enough to fit the curves of the forward hull, both > vertically and fore and aft. > > They might be separate boards but I only see bungs at the top and bottom of > their vertical 'run'. > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com> > Sent: Tue, Feb 2, 2021 1:49 pm > Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' > > It seems to me that the teak battens were initially glued to a fabric backing > with about 1/32” spacing between the battens to allow for the assembly to > adapt to the curves of the boat (and probably humidity). > > Bob > > Bob Boyer > s/v Rainy Days > C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) > (Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay) > blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com > email: dainyr...@icloud.com > > > On Feb 2, 2021, at 12:17 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Great idea on the plugs--I have found them but thought I'd probably have to > drill them out entirely. That will certainly be my first try before I destroy > anything further. > > Unfortunately, the aft 6-18 inches of both the ceiling panel under the cubby > and the panel 'inside' the cubby extending into a closed cabinet were totally > destroyed by the water leak over the years I neglected it! > > Thus Charles' suggestion will not work in my case since there are no > 'remains' of the panel to save. > > Regarding the bung removal, hopefully this will allow me to remove the > partially destroyed panel. I haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may > extend forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks! > > Thanks for the suggestions, > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Graham Collins via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> > Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 9:21 pm > Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls' > > Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to get > the plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the center and > screwed a wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could remove the > screws and thus the panel. I'd go with that before resorting to a power > tool... > You could replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of tongue > on them so there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above shows through. > And don't press the battens tight together in case they expand with > humidity... > Graham Collins > Secret Plans > C&C 35-III #11 > On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: > Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem. > > I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C&C sourced this > material to a local shop who has since gone out of business. > > My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the > listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the > current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it. > > First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to > determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be > teak, or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with > most boat projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps > backward before any forward progress is made--at least that is how it usually > works for me! > > Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of the > high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an > oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it > (1st step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those > somewhere. > > Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely need > a router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd step > backward). > > Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let the > list know what the solution turns out to be. > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > > > > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
