I have lots of info for you to consider. However, I am by no means a professional.
I found that without exception "lemon oils" are mineral oil with added color and scent. Double check me. I use the SDS to see and compare the "ingredients" in lots of products. Pure mineral oil is what is recommended for wooden cutting boards though some people recommend thickening it with beeswax to make a cream or paste that will last through washing a little better. In their 100% pure form, both mineral oil and beeswax are "food safe". Neither mineral oil or bees wax will ever "dry". They do not naturally give off VOCs and will only ever simply be absorbed, or washed away. Warmer temps encourage more and faster absorption. Some people have reported mildew as a result of using "lemon oil". I have not experienced this at all and would suggest that the primary cause of the mildew is high moisture. You will most likely find that most "teak oils" are basically a mineral oil though some may have additional UV stabilizers and blockers. Teak oils are also often colored brown instead of yellow but this is aesthetic more than anything. Linseed oil is a common wood finishing product and comes in 2 variations. Boiled and raw. Similar to mineral oil, raw linseed has no (or low) VOCs and will never dry thought I believe it is slightly thinner than mineral oil and will get better absorption. As I understand it raw linseed and flaxseed oil are basically the same thing though unlike pure mineral oil and supermarket flaxseed oil, linseed oil should not be consumed. Probably not an issue, but it is worth keeping in mind should you be looking for a product to condition your cutting boards. I use raw linseed thickened with bees wax as a natural preservative on my bee hives. It definitely seems to make a difference over unprotected wood. I seem to recall that boiled linseed oil is not linseed oil at all but rather a chemical concoction that actually has VOCs and ultimately dries. As a single application it will go on similar to raw linseed or mineral oil. It will quickly absorb like raw linseed but has the advantage of ultimately giving off those VOCs and drying. A second application can result in a slight shiny or satin finish as the second layer is now building up on the dry layer below instead of soaking in. A third application can give a semi-gloss finish. Now on to Danish oil. Danish oil is akin to a very very thin colored polyurethane . It can be applied with a rag in the same manner as the above mentioned products. It comes in a variety of colors. It will dry. I like to use Danish oil on fresh, raw, neglected, or weathered decorative interior wood as a base coat. I find that applying it with a foam brush leaves enough to soak in. It is thin enough that it will soak in quite well. While it is wet you can keep applying more to get better and better penetration. Per the directions you would come back a few hours after application to wipe away any extra and then allow to dry thoroughly (24 hours-ish). When wiped away it leaves a natural finish that will be resistant to being washed away. Since it comes in various colors you can also add back some youthfulness to greyed out wood as well as more closely match existing wood. This product is also a good fit for traction surfaces and high moisture surfaces such as the stairs and the shower bench. Once the base is established, maintaining it with an oil product from above is much less involved and lasts longer. Just keep in mind that if the oil product does not dry then it will impact slip resistance. Hope this adds some options for you. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C+ Solomons, MD On Sat, Mar 27, 2021, 19:19 Dean McNeill via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote: > Spring chores on the new-to-me C&C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak > interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully > removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m > wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of > oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating > any exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or > something else?Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the > list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to > the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
