Agree, The point of discussing this topic is to learn and share maintenance methods with fellow C&C owners so they can avoid future problems.
Vented loops are little understood, but simple and easy to maintain. I'll bet the majority out there are closed shut with salt crystals or scale. Both of mine were. Chuck S > On 06/30/2022 12:27 PM Chris Riedinger via CnC-List > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Many folks don't have a problem with anything and thus don't change > anything. > > The real problem arises if you have a crack or leak beyond the failed > vented loop and you're below the waterline, away from the boat for extended > periods of time, etc > > > Normal operation of items in service beyond vented loops have intentional > limits on the seawater entry. > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2022, 8:17 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List > <[email protected] mailto:[email protected] > wrote: > > > > John, > > > > Here's a pic of the vented wet exhaust riser on Touche'. At least > > I think that's what it is. > > > > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r-3xSbChZeio35MrFSmtN03y6VW6ugKz/view?usp=sharing > > > > It's the fiberglass loop at the top. Don't ask me how it works. > > Don't ask me about the loop at the other end of the little gray hose, > > either. I'm completely ignorant of this configuration. > > -- > > Dennis C. > > Touche' 35-1 #83 > > Mandeville, LA > > > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2022 at 9:46 AM John Read via CnC-List > > <[email protected] mailto:[email protected] > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Interesting – have not heard or seen vented loops used this > > > way. My 34 does not have them and no problems in 40 years > > > > > > > > > > > > John Read > > > > > > Legacy III > > > > > > 1982 C&C 34 > > > > > > Noank, CT > > > > > > > > > > > > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > > > [mailto:[email protected] mailto:[email protected] ] > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2022 5:20 PM > > > To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list > > > Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER > > > Subject: Stus-List vented loops > > > > > > > > > > > > Learned the hard way how to test vented loops. > > > > > > > > > > > > I was changing engine hoses and came upon an original, 33 > > > year old, bronze, vented loop for the engine cooling water. It's located > > > between the heat exchanger and the injection elbow of the exhaust riser. > > > It's purpose is to break a siphon and prevent water flooding the engine > > > and the boat when the engine is off. Mine was filled with scale and no > > > longer operational. > > > > > > > > > > > > The following comes from info included with a new Forespar > > > vented loop. To test a vented loop, you blow air through the vent from > > > outside into the tubing, through the "duck bill" rubber thing, and that's > > > it. If air won't penetrate, it's clogged and should be cleaned. If the > > > thing leaks, it probably needs cleaning or a new rubber duck bill. > > > > > > > > > > > > I replaced the Forespar rubber duckbill, $15, on my bilge > > > pump hose and I replaced the entire loop fitting $44 on the engine hose > > > using a Forespar 5/8" vented loop. Now both of my vented loops use the > > > same duckbill vent and have the same size retaining nut so a simple clear > > > two foot length of 3/4" hose can be pushed over the fitting to facilitate > > > testing either vented loop. > > > > > > > > > > > > I have to add that I never had a problem in twenty years of > > > ownership and ingnored these items until I started replacing hoses. I'd > > > be glad to hear anyone else's ideas on this. > > > > > > > > > > > > Chuck S > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
