The original question was how to deal with an old Poli-Glow hull.  Should she 
paint it?
 
I must confess I have been using Poli-Glow for about twenty years.  I wouldn't 
do that again if I got a different boat, but this boat responds nicely to a 
gentle application of Poli-Prep, and a scrub, and five or six coats of 
Poli-Glow annually.  The shine is amazing and always draws compliments, and 
lasts the year without any other maintenance.  Problems occur when I skip an 
application and the hull shows dirt and blotchy areas or areas where the gloss 
is uneven.  But if I do my duty annually, the shine is excellent and the work 
not as hard as compounding and waxing.
 
Poli-Glow gets a bad rap, but if you follow their directions, and do the prep, 
you get a great result.  One advantage is how fast it dries.  Normally, I start 
at the bow of my 35 Ft boat, and by the time I finish the first coat, it's dry 
where I started, and I can start the second.  I just go round and round the 
boat using a shammy applicator on a sponge on a pole, and after a couple of 
hours, I'm done and it can rain without harm.
 
Paint:  There are a few new paints Interlux Pro and Alexseal, that can be 
rolled without tipping, made for DIYers and I would consider those before any 
Awlgrip products.  The disadvantage with paint is the drying time and 
reapplication time.  Most paints take hours to dry and overnight to cure before 
you paint a second coat.  They are sticky while they dry, so catch bugs and 
dust.   A tent or a paint shed would be expensive but well worth the money to 
produce the best result with the least amount of rework.
 
Summary:  if you had Poli-Glow on the hull before, continue with Poli-Glow.  
Clean it well, apply Poli-Prep to remove the top coats, sand with 400 grit to 
remove yellow areas, apply Poli-Prep to the whole surface, and than reapply 
Poli-Glow for a great shine.
 
That's my two cents.
Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis   
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
  

> On 10/25/2025 7:02 PM EDT Dave S via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote:
>  
>  
> I haven’t read the entire thread and all the replies, but if you haven’t 
> already tried a couple of grades of compound to get through the top layer  of 
> gel coat oxidation, I would think that would be a good first pass.  I’ve 
> always been surprised at the results of this, and you might find it. It’s 
> enough to keep you happy.
>  
> Dave 
>  
>  
> Get Outlook for iOS https://aka.ms/o0ukef
>  
>  
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List <[email protected]>
> Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2025 6:58:02 PM
> To: Stus-List <[email protected]>
> Cc: Joel Aronson <[email protected]>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Paint
>  
> Awlcraft 3000 is Azko Nobel latest paint. It can be repaired. The factory rep 
> recommended it over Awlgrip even for professional use. 
>  
> I’m very happy with it. 
> 
> Joel
> 
>  
> 
> On Sat, Oct 25, 2025 at 6:46 PM Brian Davis via CnC-List 
> <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> > Absolutely correct. Awlgrip works well and preparations is the key. I did 
> > Nina in the same fashion.  If youre on Instagram my ID is:  nina1980cc  I 
> > documented the bottom job and hull at the same time. Roll n tip is an art.
> >  
> >  
> > Brian W Davis Consulting Inc.
> > (954) 892-1128
> > LinkedIn http://www.linkedin.com/in/brian-w-davis-inc
> >  
> > 
> > On Sat, Oct 25, 2025, 6:39 PM Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
> > <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
> > 
> > > I’d say paint is your best choice. If you’re a DIY-er, then Awl Grip is 
> > > very easy to work with. It’s all about the prep, then you can roll and 
> > > tip and it will look sprayed from 6’ away.
> > > Andy
> > > 
> > > Andrew Burton
> > > 26 Beacon Hill
> > > Newport, RI 
> > > USA    02840
> > >  
> > > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> > > +401 965-5260
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > On Oct 25, 2025, at 18:36, Peter W. via CnC-List <[email protected] 
> > > > mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > 
> > > > Janet, Hi,
> > > > I know your dilemma.  I have a 30 C&C, Flag Blue hull, with years of 
> > > > Polyglow on it.  When I bought the boat, the gelcoat was near "dead", 
> > > > and PolyGlow did bring it back.  That said, a good paint job in my area 
> > > > starts at $600 to$700 a foot, and 
> > > > while I am tempted to attempt DIY painting, the fact that I have no 
> > > > climate control capability keeps me using Poly.  
> > > > Sorry I don't have better info for you.
> > > > Good Luck!
> > > > Pete W. 
> > > > Siren Song
> > > > C&C 30 II
> > > > Irvington, Va. 
> > > > 
> > > > On Sat, Oct 25, 2025 at 6:06 PM Janet Schilling via CnC-List 
> > > > <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > > The hull (above waterline) on my 30’ 1980 C&C MKI doesn’t look good. 
> > > > > It’s had Polyglow coatings that have been stripped off (with floor 
> > > > > stripper) and reapplied in the past. Any suggestions going forward? 
> > > > > Strip again? Something else? TIA.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Sent from my iPhone
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> > > > > greatly appreciated.
> > > > > 
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