Tom, et al, Re: maps. There are two statewide, back road atlases that I 
highly recommend: Benchmark Maps' Colorado Road and Recreation Atlas or 
DeLorne's Colorado Atlas and Gazetteer. These are invaluable for 
"wilderness" birders, and either one is well worth the $20 to $30. 
Especially in the eastern grasslands and on the Western Slope, wherever 
public land is shown -- USFS grassland or BLM -- car camping is allowed. 
FYI Cheers, Ron


On Wednesday, June 24, 2020 at 10:24:24 PM UTC-6, Tom Wilberding wrote:
>
> The CFO website mentions Cottonwood Canyon in Baca County: “A visit here 
> will seldom leave a birder disappointed!” 
> https://cobirds.org/CountyBirding/County/BySite.aspx?SiteID=36
>
>  
>
> Barb and I second that opinion. We spent two nights there this week and 
> enjoyed the birds and wilderness very much, worth the six hour drive from 
> Littleton. Here is a five minute account of our trip. No rarities, but if 
> you are thinking of visiting Baca County, you may benefit from our 
> experience.
>
>  
>
> My goal was to see and photograph birds, and to photograph the Milky Way 
> for the first time, which requires a camera, a tripod, a 
> clear-dark-moonless sky, and insomnia. The eastern prairie of Colorado has 
> no big cities, so dark skies are possible.
>
>  
>
> Baca County, Colorado’s most southeastern county next to Kansas and 
> Oklahoma, has a website that recommends camping at Carrizo Canyon Picnic 
> Area, so we headed there. At 3 PM we arrived and found no people and only 
> three picnic tables for camping, and an outhouse. A sign declared the park 
> was closed for camping due to the pandemic, the outhouse locked. What now? 
> We hiked the Carrizo one-mile trial in 94-degree heat while thinking what 
> to do next. The trail was blocked in two spots due to high water in the 
> canyon, but we saw a couple of eastern phoebes as consolation.
>
>  
>
> The sign at Carrizo mentioned in fine print that “dispersed camping” was 
> allowed on the Comanche National Grasslands nearby. But the grasslands are 
> a patchwork. What is private ranch and what is public grasslands in that 
> vast area? You would need a map; but we didn’t have one, nor cell phone 
> service or internet.
>
>  
>
> I had read that “primitive camping” was allowed at Cottonwood Canyon, 
> about seven miles to the west, and that Cottonwood Canyon had many 
> interesting birds, so we decided to camp there, come what may. We are not 
> expert campers. We have enjoyed several camping trips to state park 
> campgrounds that had a host, picnic tables, fire rings, water, and 
> bathrooms. But primitive camping? No host, no picnic table, no fire ring, 
> no water, and no bathroom.
>
>  
>
> We felt okay about the prospect of primitive camping except for the 
> no-bathroom part, but we did bring a small shovel and toilet paper along 
> just in case. I learned on this trip that you’re supposed to dig a hole 
> then poop in the hole. You don’t do the opposite—poop then dig the hole. 
> Women seem to instinctively understand this. Me—live and learn—I had to 
> clean the shovel!
>
>  
>
> We drove down into remote Cottonwood Canyon, miles from nowhere, and saw a 
> large sign on the side of the dirt road where the primitive camping was 
> supposed to be: “Private Property.” It was riddled with bullet holes. Now 
> what to do? The sign did not read “No Camping” so we decided to look for a 
> shady spot near Cottonwood Creek that was hidden from the road and take our 
> chances in case the sign meant “no camping” after all. Always an adventure!
>
>  
>
> We set up our tent, then relaxed in our camp chairs above the creek. (No 
> campfire due to a county ban.) Birds serenaded us one by one, as if on cue: 
> canyon wren, yellow warbler, plumbeous vireo, ash-throated flycatcher, 
> yellow-breasted chat, blue grosbeak, ladder-backed woodpecker, Chihuahuan 
> ravens, Mississippi Kites, mourning doves, and others whose calls or songs 
> I couldn’t identify. Then came fireflies blinking in the reeds and all 
> around us, then bats twittering next to the canyon walls, then frogs 
> thrumming, then distant coyotes yipping, and a couple of hours after 
> sunset, the Milky Way and endless stars in the dark sky.
>
>  
>
> It felt remarkable to be in such a remote area only about six hours from 
> Denver. Our own wilderness kingdom--no people, litter (well a little, but 
> we cleaned it up), traffic, lights, airplane noise, fracking equipment, 
> wind farms, phone, internet, Trump news, covid, or covid news. And no 
> mountain lions or bears and very few mosquitoes. Felt like paradise.
>
>  
>
> The night was cloudy, but at 11 pm the sky cleared a bit and I took a few 
> Milky Way photos then turned in after our long and eventful day.
>
>  
>
> A chilly sunrise at 5:30 am, but at 5 am the dawn chorus of birds started 
> and remained in force for over an hour. I think a dozen birds joined in, 
> but I believe two competing yellow-breasted chats could create a dawn 
> chorus all by themselves. A yellow-billed cuckoo landed on a branch above 
> our tent and cuckoo’d for a while before we emerged for the day.
>
>  
>
> After breakfast we drove a 30-mile loop south by a few ranches and saw 
> from the road red-headed woodpeckers, a golden eagle, more kites, a 
> northern mockingbird, and various sparrows. After a picnic lunch we 
> returned to camp to watch rain clouds come in. When the thunder and 
> downpour let up, we enjoyed dinner then took a walk along the canyon and 
> creek, hoping to hear an owl but settled for seeing a beautiful male summer 
> tanager.
>
>  
>
> Tuesday morning another dawn chorus, this time with an owl and distant cow 
> joining in. We had breakfast, took another walk, saw a couple of Bewick’s 
> wrens and an indigo bunting. It was time to pack up the tent and start the 
> long drive home. 
>
>  
>
> Barb said our 90-degree car smelled like a Waste Management garbage truck 
> with compressed trash and dirty laundry. Oh well, pack it in, pack it out. 
> Highlights on our way home were seeing a curve-billed thrasher in a field 
> of cholla cactus and enjoying a chocolate sundae from the McDonald’s drive 
> thru in La Junta.
>
>  
>
> It was a great adventure. Thanks to Barb for her love, sharp eyes, and 
> logistical management. Glad to return home to a shower and bed.
>
>  
>
> Here is our route from Carrizo Canyon Picnic Area to where we camped at 
> Cottonwood Canyon, called by Google Maps “Kim Reorganized 88.” Zoom out to 
> see the whole area and state. Click on the 3D button to the right to see 
> canyon walls. https://goo.gl/maps/E4KnWxanGAQ1HejA9
>
>  
>
> 30 photos from our trip. Scroll down each photo a little for caption, and 
> click right arrow for next photo: 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/twilberding/50041771501/in/album-72157714850044377/
>
>  
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tom Wilberding
>
> Littleton, Colorado
>

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