Hello Mike McG,   Soils have all the characteristics of Non-renewable 
resources. Soils take a long time to be developed, thousands of years. If you 
are interested in how soil is formed google 'Jennys soil forming factors'. 
There are seven of them including things like topography, climate, etc... and 
TIME. When you just say, bring in some new soil to cap a toxic site, it reminds 
me of the old habit people used to have of dumping toxic chemicals down the 
sink and just thinking, if I dilute it enough 'it will be alright'. It won't be 
alright. Bringing new soil to a toxic site is a waste of good soil. If the site 
is that toxic it should be remediated. If it can't be remediated, walk away 
from it.  All soils have some trace of how we have treated our world (like a 
toilet). Just to illustrate, and only one example. Scientists were drilling 
into glaciers in the Canadian Rockies and were analyzing the ice cores. Not too 
far down they came upon pesticides for cotton Boll Weevils. What the heck? 
Nobody in the Rockies grows cotton! What had happened is that cotton growers  
in Texas were spraying for Boll Weevils by aerial methods. The Wind picked up 
the insecticide and only let down over the Rockies in the North. When a smelter 
increases the height of its stacks to reduce 'local pollution' it comes down 
somewhere else. I don't think there is any getting away from it. In India the 
sky is purple with pollution. That pollution does not recognize politically 
drawn boundaries. The truth is that all community gardens, inside your cities 
or in peri-urban areas have some level of heavy metals or toxins of other 
sorts. The best we can do is avoid the really hot spots. Garden safely, always 
wear gardening gloves, never eat produce straight from the garden, do not 
garden on windy days, you can breathe in the toxins too, always peel root crops 
before you eat them, and avoid leafy crops, because plants will tend to 
accumulate these things in the leaves and the roots. If a site is toxic and it 
is a  small community garden organization don't advise people to cap it over 
and haul good soil from somewhere else. These methods are very costly, and in 
realtiy all you are doing is robbing peter to pay paul. Look for a site which 
meets minimal standards for toxins and then start to build better soil. And 
don't use biosoilds. These are full of stuff you don't want to know. Yes, they 
may have nice N-P-K numbers but they also are full of fire retardants, 
antibiotics, etc etc.  This is just my advice, I tend to be a 'soil snob'. But, 
it is the future, and it is in our hands.   Karen 



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