Bill Brown wrote:
-----------
>When you go hosing WD-40 all over the working parts of your 400k drive
to clean and lube it, those light sensors are not going >to like it one
bit. So be sure to use copious amounts of alcohol to swab out the light
awitch assemblies. Mine have taken >several passes of swabbing and
several days of drying before these light sensors were happy.
best to never, never to use wd-40 as a lubricant, it's mostly solvent,
the wd stands for "water displacing", when the solvent evaporates
there's very little oil left, and it's not good oil and draws dust
terribly, terribly well. i recommend a good grease, wheel bearing
grease from an auto parts store works good, the red or purplish stuff is
pretty good, can't remember which kind it is but people at the parts
store should be able to tell you. for places that need thinner grease,
if there are any of them, white lithium is a great choice. if you do
need a solvent to soften old hard grease, methanol from the hardware
store should work without doing damage to plastic parts. i only use
wd-40 to loosen stuck bolts, clean old hard grease from things, and dry
tools after washing, it's just not that good for much else.
--------
> Does our man-with-the-meter, Jeff Garrison, have voltage numbers or ranges for the
>128k? Are they the same as later Macs for which Jeff has supplied voltage values?
>Does a Pina tome or other reference have them?
> Close to a year ago, one of our listers (A. Daniel King? Bryan Kattwinkel?) posted a
>very well done multi-pictured how-to guide for cleaning and adjusting the light
>sensor limit switches. I cannot find the citation for that site in my notes. Perhaps,
>if the site is still posted, our fellow lister will pop up and share it with us again.
i think the schematics are available online, i keep losing the silly
link, i'll look for it.
--------------
> With a never to be exhausted supply of Plus analog boards, this 128k is gonna live
>forever.
---------
not necessarily, the electrolytic caps age even if not in use, it's much
slower than when they are on of course, but best to replace them with
the best electrolytic caps available for switching power supplies that
digikey.com carries. the other components should be pretty stable long
term though. in any case, save any bad analog boards, they could be
part donors in the future or repaired if necessary, though the caps and
flyback are probably the most likely to fail it's possible for the
semiconductors to fail as well. also, there should be some parts on
heatsinks, heatsink grease can dry out and become less effective, it
might be wise to clean off the old thermal grease and apply a coat of
new stuff before the semiconductors fail. also remember, as the
electrolytic caps in the power supply part of the board start to fail
they put a greater strain on the semiconductors in the power supply part
and can do damage there as well.
--
"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do
the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no
safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring
adventure, or nothing."
- Helen Keller, American Blind/Deaf Author & Lecturer...
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