i've got the same problem (12.04) and
https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/compiz/+bug/329337/comments/2
helped me.

The legacy fullscreen mode disable thing was not for me:
http://moonbd.blogspot.com/2010/01/okular-starts-fullscreen.html

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/329337

Title:
  Okular starts in full-screen mode, without toolbar if last used
  maximized

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