Email digest for the Global Conservation Forum (ConsDistList) egroup.
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 1. RE: Firecrackers on paper object

 2. RE: Firecrackers on paper object

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1.From: Monona Rossol
 Posted: Saturday September 20, 2025  9:33 AM
 Subject: RE: Firecrackers on paper object
 Message: 
Hi Susan,

Regarding conservation of a small pack of fire crackers: D. Thor Minnick is 
right about the potassium compounds.  Early flash powders were more likely to 
be made from potassium chlorate instead of potassium perchlorate.  Fine 
alumimum powder could be the fuel.  Over time, some of these flash powder 
mixtures can become unstable.

My experience is primarily with the chemistry because I was a technical editor 
for Kosanke's Encyclopedia of Pyrotechnic Chemicals for years.  So I started 
this inquiry for you with a very experienced pyrotechnician:

First a definition: An explosive ordnance disposal (EOD) unit exists in the 
fire department in any major city.  These people have the facilities to do this 
kind of thing and sometimes they get interested in wee projects like this. My 
contact pyro suggested the EOD people might even use these for training 
purposes.  Of course, you run two risks: 1) they are not conservators and might 
muck up your objective; and 2) the fire department might just confiscate the 
fire crackers.  It seems there are laws that may be violated by altering these 
firecrackers.  He also said:

"My limited insights into this come from military museums and collections of 
military explosive devices, etc. used for EOD training, where of course 
preserving the device is important so they can't just make solid, prop dummies 
of them like we generally do, yet of course they can't have the hazard. 

In general, what they seem to do is of course identify the hazards as best they 
can, then have trained, experience people safely remove the explosives, with a 
view toward doing as little damage to the device as practicable, have whoever 
did it certify that it's free of explosive, and then they maintain a record 
traceable to the individual object (possibly including photographs, video, 
etc.) of what was done, who did it and that they did it sufficiently.

Using this process, huge collections of formerly very dangerous things have 
been successfully and safely maintained. The only problems I'm aware of come 
when the procedure isn't followed."

Looking at the picture of the little fire crackers, he also pointed out:   
"Granted, it's a small quantity, but there's almost certainly flash powder in 
there (if they are real and not just some sort of decorative item.) There's 
also of course the fuse itself, which if it's real, will have some kind of 
priority composition in it.

Both the powdered charge and the fuse have the potential to cause injuries 
and/or start fires."  

The fact that the fuse is also a hazard means a conservator would have to 
remove all of the charge in the cylinder and also replace the fuses.  You might 
as well replace the cylinders, too.   I also talked to conservators, and it is 
not uncommon to make replicas of items like this, and there is nothing unique 
about these that needs preservation, in my opinion, other than the chemicals 
you are removing.

My opinion, take the originals to the Fire Department for proper disposal and 
make replicas.




-------------------------------------------
Original Message:
Sent: 9/18/2025 1:16:00 PM
From: D. Thor Minnick
Subject: RE: Firecrackers on paper object


Hi Susan,


Firecrackers of this size generally use KNO3, KClO4, or KClO3 as the oxidizers. 
 Fuels may be Al, S, and charcoal. Interesting problem.  


I do not think you will be able to undo the crimped paper ends to "drain" out 
the mixture. Good luck.








------------------------------
D. Thor Minnick
Conservator
Minnick Associates
Honolulu
United States
------------------------------
-------------------------------------------
Original Message:
Sent: 09-12-2025 17:10
From: Susan Russick
Subject: Firecrackers on paper object


We have a c. 1973 Yoshio Nakajima pamphlet that has a small bunch of 
firecrackers adhered to the cover. I'm planning to remove as much powder as I 
can from the cylinders, but am wondering about other steps that might make it 
safer to store in a library collection.  Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Susan




------------------------------
Susan Russick
Chief Conservator
Northwestern University Libraries
------------------------------


2.From: Erik Farrell
 Posted: Saturday September 20, 2025  2:56 PM
 Subject: RE: Firecrackers on paper object
 Message: 
I agree with Thor on both composition and assessment of uncrimping the ends. I 
have worked on larger flares of similar construction, and for those I had EOD 
slit the paper tube vertically to remove the incendiary charge, then mended the 
cylinders using Japanese tissue and wheat starch paste applied to the interior. 
If you are trying to inert and retain the original firecrackers, I would go 
down that route. I haven't published that one yet (although bits of it were in 
an AIC talk I gave in 2024), but feel free to contact me and I can share images 
showing tools/methods. After scaling it down to firecracker size I think the 
same process would work, but it'd be a bunch of very fiddly tweezer work under 
a microscope.


As others have pointed out, the fusing is also reactive. The fuse is generally 
in a configuration which is non-explosive (e.g. a small central core of a 
self-oxidizing incendiary or an inhibited low explosive with a relatively slow 
burn rate, surrounded by a waxed fiber or similar). I don't know how you could 
remove the fuse without damaging the work. I also don't think there's enough 
hazardous material in it to be worth removing, and at least for BATF 
classifications I don't think you would be required to store that as an 
explosive. 


The firecrackers themselves are also not really an alarming quantity of 
explosive material, but are technically explosives nonetheless. Unfortunately 
most of the commercially available BATF-compliant magazines are wood-lined, and 
the VOCs involved aren't great for long-term museum preservation. Although 
geared towards flammables rather than explosives, I think the note Michelle 
linked on storage of matches would actually be quite reasonable for this. If 
this is the only explosive material in the collection I don't think you would 
be wrong to consider retaining it in safe storage, although you should consult 
your local fire marshal first.





Per Chris - the oxidisers typical in this type of firework are very water 
soluble. However, they do need to be extracted if you're relying on that as a 
deactivation measure; simply wetting and drying will not reliably deactivate 
the material, although it will change the distribution of oxidiser within the 
explosive mixture. This can deactivate the compound, and things like black 
powder are notoriously unreliable after wetting/drying. But unreliable and 
inert are very different states; you can end up with a heterogeneous mixture 
where some areas are oxidiser-poor and will not detonate, some areas are 
oxidiser-rich and may detonate, and some areas are still stoichiometrically 
ideal and absolutely will detonate. Thoroughly saturating with water and then 
extracting that water before it has a chance to dry will, theoretically, remove 
the oxidiser and inert the compound. It is incredibly difficult to verify that 
this has been successful without destructive sampling. In general, if trying
 to inert an explosive device, I would tend towards removing the energetic 
compound (...or contacting my friendly neighborhood EOD team to remove it, 
depending on the configuration) rather than trying to deactivate it in place.





Be aware, not all EOD are created equal. Most civilian and military branches 
have standing orders not to attempt non-destructive deactivation, so will seize 
and destroy the object as the first resort. US Marine Corps is, as of my last 
dealings with them, still allowed nondestructive methods. There are also a few 
retired EOD scattered around who will also do that work unofficially. For 
something this small (and civilian in origin), I'm not sure USMC would get 
involved. For contacting civilian EOD (generally via a local fire department) 
specify that you are dealing with old firecrackers, that they appear to be 
stable, and that they are part of an artwork you don't want destroyed. Before 
you contact them, make sure that type of firecracker is legal to own in your 
jurisdiction, and/or have a plan prepared to remove the firecrackers from the 
artwork if needed. I don't think anyone is going to be overzealous enough to 
seize and destroy the entire artwork for the sake of a pack of
 firecrackers, but I would also have some contingencies in place in case things 
do start going in that direction.








------------------------------
Erik Farrell
Senior Objects Conservator
The Mariners' Museum and Park
Newport News, VA
------------------------------
-------------------------------------------
Original Message:
Sent: 09-19-2025 20:52
From: Chris Stavroudis
Subject:  Firecrackers on paper object


Hi Susan,

I'll stick my neck out here. If I'm not mistaken, once the explosive in this 
sort of firecracker gets wet it can no longer explode. I believe it dissolves 
the oxidizers Thor mentions and even when dry, the explosive system is disabled.

On that theory, perhaps you could use a thin-needled syringe to inject water 
and then draw the water back out. Treat the exterior first with cyclomethicone 
to prevent the water from migrating into and out of the paper.

Honestly, I think the larger concern is the fuse material. If I'm not mistaken, 
that is usually made from a higher grade explosive so that it doesn't blow out 
easily. It also should be somewhat waterproof given its intended function.


------------------------------
Chris Stavroudis
Paintings Conservator
Freelance/Private Practice/Self-employed/Independent
W Hollywood
United States
------------------------------

Original Message:
Sent: 09-18-2025 13:15
From: D. Thor Minnick
Subject:  Firecrackers on paper object


Hi Susan,

Firecrackers of this size generally use KNO3, KClO4, or KClO3 as the oxidizers. 
 Fuels may be Al, S, and charcoal. Interesting problem.  

I do not think you will be able to undo the crimped paper ends to "drain" out 
the mixture. Good luck.






------------------------------
D. Thor Minnick
Conservator
Minnick Associates
Honolulu
United States

Original Message:
Sent: 09-12-2025 17:10
From: Susan Russick
Subject: Firecrackers on paper object


We have a c. 1973 Yoshio Nakajima pamphlet that has a small bunch of 
firecrackers adhered to the cover. I'm planning to remove as much powder as I 
can from the cylinders, but am wondering about other steps that might make it 
safer to store in a library collection.  Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Susan




------------------------------
Susan Russick
Chief Conservator
Northwestern University Libraries
------------------------------




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