----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any advice in this forum.]----
Hi Maynard,
I agree with Jon. Although it could be rings, I can't understand
'zero'
compression. How about a
collapsed lifter, a bent pushrod (or one that's popped out of it's normal
position), or a flat lobe on
the camshaft? Did it seem to be running 'smoothly' and this happened all
at
once or was it sending you
some sort of a message that 'all was not right' for quite some time before
you got around to checking
it?
Or, (really stretching here) is the piston even going up and down?
Maybe
a broken rod??? Pull the
top sparkplug out and stick a stiff wire or something in there and see if
the piston is near the top of
the cylinder (or at least if you can touch it with the wire), then go turn
the prop about one blade and
try the wire again and see if the piston has moved. If it hasn't moved
any,
try it a couple of more
times (just to be sure). If the piston isn't moving it's teardown time. If
the piston is moving there
you're back to square one again but this is a really easy thing to check
to
at least eliminate a broken
rod.
Another simple check.....while the top sparkplug is removed, Put your
thumb over the open plug hole
and have someone turn the prop for you several times (All switches "OFF"
of
course) and see if there is
any 'feel' of air coming out around your thumb. It should blow your thumb
off of the hole, there is no
way you can hold very much pressure with your thumb. If, after several
turns
of the prop, you've felt
nothing, then it's definately teardown time.
Also, you can remove the valve cover from that cylinder and have
someone
'prop' it for you and you
can watch to see if both rocker arms are moving as they should.
That's about all the ideas I have rignt now, good luck and I hope you
find something really minor is
the problem instead of a cracked cylinder or something else major that
costs
you big bucks (and time on
the ground).
Bob Saville
N3396H, 415C
Eugene, OR
Jon Page wrote:
> ----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following
any
advice in this forum.]----
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: [COUPERS] Replacement Cylinder
> Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 11:01:27 -0700
> From: Jon Page <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Organization: @Home Network
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>
> Maynard.
>
> If you have had the cylinder off , and checked the valves, and
> the piston hasn't got a big hole in it, it's not your rings! Rings can
> get worn or broken, and still produce some compression. I would say THE
> most likely problem you have is valve clearance. Face it, if the piston
> is going up and down, and the valves are closing properly, you have to
> have some compression. You have 47 cubic inches of air being compressed
> on every compression stroke, so that air has to rush out somewhere
> pretty fast to have 0 compression. I don't have a lot of experience with
> this engine, but they all work on the same principal. I believe the push
> rod length is how the valve clearance is set. They have hydraulic valve
> lifters that take up the valve clearance when the oil pressure comes
> up. My advice is, DO NOT buy a new cylinder and piston until you have
> checked everything out thoroughly. I would lay a small amount of money
> on it not being piston or cylinder, if there is no obvious gaping holes
> anywhere. Ask around BEFORE spending large amounts money. Let me know
> what you find.
>
> Jon Page
>
> 415-C FLAK MAGNET.
>
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