----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any
advice in this forum.]----
Paul,

I found one thing that is excellent on old masking tape. Go to the auto
parts store and get a spray can of gasket remover- when you spray it on,
wait about 15 seconds and the tape turns to gel and starts to lift, then
I just removed it with a plastic scraper. You should only spray a small
area, because the stuff dries up quickly and then you have a rock-hard
mess that's worse than the original tape.


I spent 4 hours this morning sandblasting the inside of my fuselage to
get it paint ready. The center spar section cleaned up really good, but
I'm only about 1/2 through. I am going to be repainting everything
inside, including the control column, behind the firewall and under the
floorboards. The gun got plugged up and I got really slowed down, then
once the gun cleared up it started shooting sand pretty good, but it was
getting hot so I quit.  

I have my tails all stripped and ready for paint. Also, my landing gear,
mags and carb are ready for paint. I pulled out my rudder bellcrank
(bolted inside the stabilizer) because it was really jammed up. It'll
give me a chance to clean it and lube it properly.

I located 2 magneto rotors that are used but re-magnetized so I'm gonna
stay with my bendixs for now. They are tagged for $85.00 each. They have
coils for 68.00, and everything else in my mags is OK. So I'm spending
300 on the mags instead of 900 for a pair of new ones.  


That's all for now--

jan zanutto
415G
Fresno, ca
On Fri, 18 Aug 2000 15:16:58 -0700 Paul Anton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> ----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following 
> any advice in this forum.]----
> Well I have all the corrosion off and the rear beam back
> together all riveted up.  I only had to use 4 or 5 rivets a size
> larger due to bad holes and removed and replaced 3 or 4
> of my rivets that turned out ugly. (It helps if you put the proper
> rivet set in the gun a 3/32 set used on a 1/4 rivet makes a pretty
> ugly rivet head) <G>
> 
> I wasn't able to find walnut shell media of the right grade
> locally. I used a fine grade aluminum oxide and turned
> the air pressure down. It did a BEAUTIFUL job. The 
> corrosion came off with the lightest touch of the gun and
> left a real nice finish.  No pitting to speak of. A few more
> years untreated and it would have been a different story.
> 
> What are the compression fittings used on the pitot & 
> static lines? They appear to be automotive. Are they
> standard? Who made them. 
> 
> I know at work we have about  or 5 different makes of tube 
> fittings and non are compatible with each other. 
> 
> Does someone have a copy of Skyport's wing landing
> light installation instructions? I would like to prep the wing
> for the light. I am unsure if I'll buy another kit or remove the 
> light
> assembly from 73H's present wing.  I sure would like to buy 
> a copy of the installation instructions.
> 
> I am spending more time removing the old masking tape
> from the wings then I did removing the corrosion. :-( MEK
> juts makes a gummy mess. I think I'll bite the bullet and use the
> proper anti-chafing tape. <G>
> 
> I made a simple rotisserie to work on the wings. It sure makes
> it easy to work always standing up. I'll send a photo if anyone
> is would like to see it. I made it from scrap pipe in about 30
> minutes.
> 
> I am considering using Aluminum Rive-Nuts in the wing to hold
> the fairings on. All the holes are enlarged and Rive-Nuts would be
> the simple fix. Nut plates would be a LOT more work. I think if
> I use some Lok-Tight on the Rive-Nuts I won't have to worry about
> using the keyed type.  The small projection of the Rive-Nut above
> the rib surface should be handled by the finish tape. I'd welcome
> comments here. Has anyone gone this route?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Cheers:
> 
> Paul
> N2273H
> 
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