Fishing for a future


Special Report: Global fishing in crisis

Jamie Wilson in Mbour, Senegal
Monday August 14, 2000

It was four days before Anta Gueye knew for certain that her youngest son
was dead. Cheik, 16, was one of seven fishermen who had pushed out the small
canoe-shaped fishing boat through the waves from the beach in Mbour, a dusty
fishing village 50 miles south of Dakar on the west African coast.
The men had planned to be at sea for three days - a long time in a boat with
no shelter on the unpredictable Atlantic waters. But the fish that were once
plentiful nearer to the shore have disappeared, and they have to travel
further afield to find the shoals.

It happened while the crew was sleeping. One moment they were curled up on
the piles of oily nets, the next they were in the water, the pirogue
splintered into matchwood.

The steel hull of an industrial trawler, one of the many from the developed
world that now ply their trade in the waters off the west African coast, had
cut the small pirogue in half. The men clung on to pieces of the wreckage,
calling out to each other, as the trawler ploughed on towards the horizon.

As the waters settled the men swam together, knowing their only chance of
survival was to stay close together. But there was no sign of Cheik; his
crewmates said he had tied himself to the side of the boat to guard against
a freak Atlantic wave tossing him overboard during the night. When the
trawler hit he had been unable to free himself and was sucked under the
water. They never found his body.

The six survivors spent a cold night clinging to the driftwood, talking and
praying to stop from falling asleep and slipping under the swell. The next
morning the men were rescued by another pirogue fishing the same waters.

Cheik's brother Ousseymon had suffered a serious gash to his leg in the
collision, but the hard economics of life for the fishermen of Senegal meant
the rescue boat could not return to Mbour until the crew had caught enough
fish to cover the cost of the trip. By the time they reached shore nothing
could be done to heal the suppurating wound and his leg had to be amputated.

Anta Gueye waited on the beach, hoping her missing son had been picked up by
another fishing boat. By the fourth day all hope was gone.

For the fishermen of Senegal incidents like these have become a common
occurrence. Arona Diagne, who is president of the Senegalese independent
fishworkers' association, CNPS, said that more than 300 men have been lost
in accidents with trawlers in the waters around Mbour over the last two
decades.

With the rapid depletion of fish stocks in Europe and Asia, trawlers from
France, Spain, Italy, Japan and Taiwan as well as the former Soviet
republics have targeted the fertile waters off west Africa to keep pace with
their countries insatiable appetite for fish. Seventy-eight EU boats are
licensed to fish in Senegal in a deal that nets the government in Dakar
�7.5m a year.

The Mbour fishermen rarely know where the boats responsible for the
accidents come from. Often they are fishing illegally inside an area
reserved for the artisan fishermen, but the boats cover their identity
numbers with mud. They turn off their lights so they cannot be seen from the
shore at night, with the inevitable result they cannot be seen by the
pirogues either. According to the local fishermen, when the accidents
happen, the trawlers never stop.

Even if they do identify the boats fishing illegally, they are rarely
penalised. "The industrial boats are very powerful with a lot of money and
they can buy their way out of trouble," Mr Diagne, who is still an active
fisherman in Mbour, said. "They corrupt the persons who are meant to stop
them. The bribe is everything."

For the fishermen of Mbour it is not just their lives that are at stake but
their livelihoods.

The Joola is one of Mbour's largest pirogues and its catch supports a number
of families in the town. Her crew, including children and old men, had set
out early one morning when the sun was giving off a gentle warmth. Now it
felt like razor blades on the skin.

At the tiller was Doudou Gaye, 30, who, like generations of his family
before him, has been fishing off the coast of Senegal since he was a boy.
While the men brewed strong tea on a charcoal fire burning inside a car
wheel hub, a look out kept a sharp eye on the ocean surface hoping to spot
the tell-tale dark circle created by a shoal of sardines.

A few miles off the coast the pirogue passed a fleet of trawlers, brimming
with the latest technology to help find the fish, and trailing mile upon
mile of nets.

Apart from the addition of an outboard motor, boats almost identical to the
Joola could have been seen in Senegal hundreds of years ago.

The crew rely on the human eye and their knowledge of the sea to find the
fish. But as the shore submerged to a shadow on the horizon the captain was
getting restless. Fuel for the trip cost �70 and with a quarter of the day
gone there was no sign of the prize that would pay the bill.

"It used to be we could catch what we wanted when we wanted," he said. "But
now many of the fish are gone, some species altogether, and what we used to
be able to catch in an afternoon now might take as long as three days."

In the local dialect, Wolof, they call the sardine " yaboye" - fish of the
poor. For 85% of the population of Senegal it is a staple part of their
diet, providing a vital source of protein for the millions who cannot afford
to buy meat.

Its importance makes it the cornerstone of the artisan fishing industry,
which directly or indirectly employs more than 400,000 people in Senegal -
roughly 10% of the population - from the fishermen to the women who gut,
smoke, boil and sell the catch.

But like the higher quality fish that used to proliferate along the west
African coast the number of sardines have been decreasing at an alarming
rate due to the influx of industrial trawlers. The sardine is a migratory
fish that makes its way up and down the coast of west Africa, passing
through the territorial waters of Mauritania before they reach Senegal. The
EU has an agreement with the government allowing 22 trawlers of unlimited
capacity to fish the Mauritanian coastal waters.

The main beneficiary of the deal has been the Dutch pelagic fleet and its
new breed of "super trawler" - 144 metres long, roughly the size of a cross
channel ferry, capable of carrying 7,000 tonnes of fish with a range of
22,000 miles. The Dutch boats are the biggest trawlers ever made and are
equipped with state-of-the-art fish-finding and winch technology able to
deliver more than three miles of net into the ocean.

Despite the EU's stated policy of sustainable fishing, the fishermen of
Senegal say the insatiable appetite of the trawlers are decimating the
sardine population.

In a cruel and twisted irony, many of the sardines caught by the trawlers
are processed and canned on Las Palmas in the Canary islands, before being
shipped back to within a few miles of where they were originally caught and
sold on the local stalls.

On board the Joola the lookout finally raised his arm to signal he had
spotted a dark stain on the surface of the ocean. As the pirogue got closer
to the shoal, the men began to pay out the nets while the captain turned
hard on the tiller, circling the fish until they were completely surrounded
by the nets.

On a signal, the four youngest members of the crew, aged between seven and
10, leapt into the water and began splashing around for all they were worth.
The men on board banged the side of the boat and shouted at the water,
trying to scare the fish away from their escape route beneath them.

As the men began pulling on the nets the boat tipped almost to vertical and
water splashed over the gunwales, filling the bottom of the pirogue. Hauling
on the ropes, the circle of net became smaller and smaller.

Eventually, all that was left was a small circle of netting. But when the
men pulled it over the side it contained little more than a handful of
sardines, two octopuses and a squid.

After four more punishing hours at sea the men of the Joola finally hauled
in a net full of fish, and the boat reverberated with the sound of flapping
sardines.

But as the pirogue arrived at the beach and a seething mass of merchants bid
for the catch, the captain was not happy. "It was not enough," he said with
a shrug of his shoulders and a disconsolate look at the fish.

There appears to be no solution to the problem of Africa's dwindling fish
stocks. The Centre of Research for the Development of Intermediary Fishing
Technologies (Credetip), a non-governmental organisation set up to protect
the rights of artisan fishermen throughout west Africa, wants to see the
west African coastal countries adopt a common policy to fishing agreements.

Youssoupha Gueye, the director of Credetip in Dakar, believes the only way
to protect one of the continent's most important resources is for the
countries to work together to insure stocks remain at sustainable levels.

But for the governments of the region, ending the fishing agreements with
the EU and other countries is not an option. Senegal is indebted to the
world bank to the tune of $3.8bn and the money from the fishing contracts
are a vital source of hard currency. Last year Senegal spent $323m servicing
its debts - $311m more than the EU pays to plunder one of the country's only
natural resources.

The internal pressures on the fish stocks have grown astronomically in the
last decade. A prolonged drought in the Sahel region has forced large
swathes of the population to migrate to the coast in search of food and
work. When they cannot find jobs in the seething metropolis of Dakar, many
try their hand at fishing, increasing to breaking point the pressure on fish
stocks.

"The fishing agreements are a short term solution to a long term problem,"
Mr Gueye said. "In Senegal we have a saying: it is better to learn how to
catch a fish than to be given a fish every day. At the moment the EU just
gives us a fish."

Arona Diagne wants to see the fishing agreements ended indefinitely before
the way of life that has provided for his family for generations disappears.
"Fishing is in our blood. If we have no fish how can we survive," he said.

But for the artisan fishermen of Senegal the day when their nets are empty
for good may be fast approaching.




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