There is much that is true in this account of street life in
Cuba, but the poetic language should alert one to the fact
that it is very much a rose-tinted view. In fact there is
very much traffic in La Habana - just about every
conceivable vehicle type crowds the streets at times, from
new little Korean cars to Eastern European sixties and
seventies models to huge fifties American models to buses to
side-car motorcycles, etc. As for the disintegration of the
colonial architecture, well there is something poetic in
that, but how much can you allow it to disintegrate withour
any kind of renewal? Another fact about the streets is the
number of panhandlers and dollar bums that plague the very
tourists on whom the country is increasingly dependent. The
social spinoffs of the introduction of the dollar are not so
idyllic and include a massive increase in prostitution - it
is well known that the line between flirtation and
prostitution in Cuba is a very thin one indeed - and the
impression that a 'foreigner' (a blanket term) is a very
desirable thing to be. Don't get me wrong, I like Cuba and
its people and will return, but paradise it ain't. I think
the subject line above should include a question mark,
because it suggests to me way too problematically that this
kind of de-linked, semi-autarkic regime is in itself the
path to a better world. 
Tahir

>>> "Sam Pawlett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 10/14 5:02 AM >>>
  "So going somewhere where there is very little motor
traffic can be a
revelation, even when this lack is not so much planned but
produced by
economic strangulation. There are few places where a major
city can be
experienced without the assaults of the internal combustion
engine, but
Cuba is one. Lying awake listening to the sounds of Havana,
you have the
impression of being in a vast dormitory. Only an occasional
engine masks
the tapestry of sound woven near and far of peoples' voices
and animals'
cries. While in most cities the life of the place is
blanketed out by
the monotonous drone of traffic, here the complex spaces
seem alive with
incident. The remarks of your neighborhood are distinct.
Crowing
cockerels wake you in the morning, and in the soft light you
can feel
the city stretch. At night artificial light is scarce. The
city has
protective darkness thrown over it, lifted in some areas
only by candles
and oil lamps from open windows, in others by occasional
electric lamps
which dramatically highlight some crumbling coloumn or
portico, while
throwing the area around it into it is the people and
particular sounds
that seize the attention against a background of deep
silence.

"Daylight reveals a disintegrating city of grand colonial
palaces and
mansions, impresssive in scale and detail, inherited by the
poor, who
nowlive in a chaotic and ramshackle splendor. Each doorway
is a porch
and each workplace open to gaze. People treat the street as
their home,
and it returns their intimacy and warmth. Children wander
freely and
without fear. They play hide and seek in and out of the
doorways, or
around skips and giant 1950's cars beached on the curb; or
they careen
down the streets on makeshift go carts. Even hardships are
remade as
virtues by these people; petrol shortages have led to the
rule of the
bicycle
each one precariously carrying two or three people over
potholes and
obstructions, their warning bells rung assidiously.

"Cuba's strong sense of community life is of course based on
many other
factors besides the lack of motor traffic. Nevertheless it
is important
that here streets are no longer merely roads, where people
pass but do
not stop and where no one can afford distraction (on pain of
death), but
rather a common ground on to which homes exit, a place owned
and used by
people. In surrendering this to the car, we have unwittingly
given up a
precious asset, owned by no one and everyone, andin doing so
have
altered every facet of our own lives."  *Gargantua*.Julian
Stallabras.
Verso.1996.p131-2.

Sam Pawlett

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