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I'll take a stab at these, most are
typical:
1. One of two things- either a tire wear
pattern from alignment problems or a dying rear wheel bearing. If it
is emphasized on right turns then especailly check the left rear as that is
extra loaded in right turns. If it is a tire wear pattern, you will likely
find it by lightly dragging the flat palm of your hand across the tread face (be
careful if the tire is worn to the steel cords with wires hanging out as you
will cut your fingers). If there is a wear pattern, you will feel
undulations on your palm across the tread face as raised or lowered tread
blocks. Specifically feel for or you may be able to actually see multiple
flat spots at 45 degree angles across the tread. This is what happens when
your rear toe alignment gets out of spec and eats the tires. Nothing you
can do about a wear pattern as it will not wear away even if the cause is
fixed. It will be there for the rest of the tire's life until you replace
it. Of you do feel a uneven wear pattern, check to see if the front tires
are smooth. If so, then rotate the tires and see if the noise has moved up
front.
If it is wheel bearings, grab the top of the rear
wheels and rock back and forth toward you to see if there is any movements at
all. About any perceptable movement of looseness is too much.
2) Metal noise- It is an exhaust heat shield
and odds are it is one for the catalytic converter as they are notorious
rattles. Usually the shield rusts or breaks enough to cause a
rattle. To repair, jack it up and rip it off.
3) Bad CV joint(s). Go to either a
cheap Autozone or similar parts house. Many of this group like www.raxles.com as they are nice folks, well
priced with great prices and great service.
4) Rear knocking under braking-
Something is amuck in the rear drum brakes. Either an out of round rear
drum or one of the retainers holding a rear brake shoe flat to the backing plate
is either weak or broken and may be letting the shoe flip against the backing
plate. How is the adjustment or number of clicks on the emergency
brake? This can often tell a bit about the health of your rear drum brakes
with the e-brake. Not difficult, just a matter of taking it apart and
seeing what is up. Try driving at slow speed, keeping off the brake pedal
and pulling the e-brake and see if the noise repeats. This may help tell
if it is a mechanical part of the rear brakes.
5. Engine chattering- Time for a valve lash
adjustment. When running, open the hood and it sounds like a general
orchestra of light metalic tapping. No big deal, plan on doing it when the
engine is overnight dead cold and get a new valve cover gasket while you are at
it. A screw driver, 12mm box wrench, feeling guage, instructions and
patience are all that is needed. Get a tube of Honda Bond silicone or
similar import engine silicone to help guarantee the sealing of the corners of
the new gasket.
Brand new noise- Tough one, not enough
info. Isolate if it is in the cabin, engine bay or under the car.
Does it happen over bumps or in flat running? Is it a regular pattern or
repeating? A particular speed or any speed?
Sounds to me like you probably have a perfectly
good car that is simply telling you it is time for a little normal maintainance
and certainly not surprising for a recently bought car. Nothing that a
little time and not much money (except the axles) can't take care of. Not
to worry, just easy to fix used car noises.
Lee
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- CRX: Noises, Noises, and MORE NOISES!!! IbanezRGKing
- Re: CRX: Noises, Noises, and MORE NOISES!!! Scott S.
- Lee & Tracy Grimes
