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Jiggy started to wander a bit to the right but it wasn't that
bad. My alignment shoppe did all the basic checks and noticed that there
was a slight toe-out on the right side so he adjusted it back.
I also have to agree with you with regards to the
Eibach's. I bought mine back in 1998 about two weeks after I got
Jiggy. It would be nearly 2 years before I installed them, however.
I used them in place of the springs that came with my VIS VSpec's. But I
have used the Eibach's since the early 90s.
I had a set of Yokohama's that made an ocilating sound at 65
MPH and only at that speed. So you might be experiencing the same sort of
thing.
On the Datsun 510 that we use to own (and AutoX mostly), it
had very sticky-tacky tires when they got up to temp and they would create a
sort of ticking or tapping sound when rolling to a stop (or when driving slow in
the pit area).
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 12:42
PM
Subject: CRX: RE: Alignment/camber
question
Lee (et.
al.),
The springs are Eibach Pro-kit, installed two years ago (LOVE
those
springs). The shocks are KYB AGX's installed at same time as
the springs
and the alignment was recently done again last month.
FYI- I was hinting at
the car "leaning to the left" since the camber
numbers were more negative on
the left side than on the right side.
There's no real issue with the
handling and taking corners is a dream, but
I do notice a *slight* tendency
to crab walk above 40mph. This is not
a big issue, so I'll probably let it
rest for now.
The only thing I
would fix right now is the nagging buzz coming from the
Dunlop GT
Qualifier's- 205 50 R15's. The tires were installed at the same
time
the alignment was done a month ago. The buzz is most noticeable at
40,
55, & 75mph- weird thing is I can even hear the tires make a very
slight
tap-tap-tap noise as the car rolls to a stop- reminds me of knobby
tires. I
ran a ruler perpendicular along the edge of the tires and
the tread looks
like it's the culprit. Question is how to quiet
things down- since this is
a simple vibration transfer problem to the
body/frame of the vehicle, would
a thin layer of rubber sandwiched between
the shock assembly & the frame
help?
TIA!
George
'89 DX-Hybrid-D16Z6, 122k miles
"Seats,
Suspension, Engine, MSD, next=dyno"
-----Original
Message-----
From: Tracy Grimes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent:
Monday, July 29, 2002 11:30 PM
To: George Freeman; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
Alignment/camber question
I am supposing that the camber numbers
are with no one sitting in the car.
Shame the numbers aren't the other way
around with a little less negative on
the driver's side so when you get in
an add your own weight to the driver's
side, you'd add probably the 1/2
deg. negative required to put it about dead
on.
If the car stock or
lowered? Threaded coil over set-up or fixed height
spring?
Generally I wouldn't be too concerned about it that much but if you
want to
get some Ingalls style sliding adjusters you could even it out or
even set
it off a tad so when you are in alone (I'm guessing most of the
travel is
this way) then it would be riught on. I didn't know Intrax had
a
camber adjuster.
If they are fixed height springs and you really
wanted to know if it is the
car or the springs doing this, then you could
swap springs side to side and
see what the numbers are. If the
springs are just a wee bit shorter at
preloaded ride height then that could
do it or if there was a little mojo in
the car and a little in the springs
they might cancel each other out (or be
further worse) on the other
side. Do you have reason to think there is a
problem with the LR
trailing arm? From the numbers alone it nothing points
to it but I
don't know the story of the car. Maybe the car just had a
heavy
driver much of it's life and that side is down a wee bit (It isn't
one of my
old cars is it? :))
To me the half degree offset is not
that big a deal for the street for a 11+
year old sport-econo car unless
you want to really want to be "Anal
Alignment Man" as there won't be a real
appreciable handling difference for
the street. If it is a racecar
where 1/10ths and 1/100ths of a lap are a
big deal then it would be more
important. It is really chews at you, there
are several little things
that one could do like shimming the driver's side
spring seats or dead
length to get rid of a little negative as it is easier
to raise than to
lower but personally I'd prefer the left side numbers a
little better then
the rights side.
You will tend to wear the inner edge on you left side
tires more quickly but
prudent periodic tire checking and rotation will
minimize wear issues. Make
sure youe toe setting is goos
too.
Some thoughts and options but I wouldn't lose
sleep,
Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "George
Freeman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
"CRX Mailing List (E-mail)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, July
29, 2002 10:53 PM
Subject: CRX: Alignment/camber question
>
Here's the readings from my last alignment:
>
> LF: -1.82 deg. RF:
-1.26 deg.
> LR: -1.47 deg. RR: -0.83 deg.
>
> So the car is
leaning to the left?! Would the left rear trailing arm be
to
>
blame? I take it Ingalls is a good choice and Intrax is a bad
choice.
> Opinions welcome!
>
>
>
>
George
> '89 DX-Hybrid-D16Z6, 121k miles
> "Seats, Suspension,
Engine, MSD, next=dyno"
>
>
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