The Earls lines that I have used on several cars did not have the little mounting tab in the middle but I certainly wouldn't stop me from using them. I just took a zip tie and strapped oit to the bumper. Mr. Kuhn mentioned the DOT Earl's lines and they may have the tabs. All of the Goodridge lines that I have seen have had the tabs. The only complaint that I have heard is a rash of peoiple who had issues with plastic melting and line failure on the Goodridge but this was a few years ago I think and I don't know enough specific info to really pass judgement on them.
I have been completely happy with probably 4 or 5 sets of Earls lines on multiple street and race cars. Lee ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Robert K. Kuhn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 9:15 PM Subject: RE: CRX: SS brake lines > I recall in the past, where there was mention of some SS brake lines not > having the attachments clamps or fittings to bolt onto the knuckle or > damper mounting clamps to prevent the lines from rubbing surround > suspension or wheel parts. Does anybody know if EArles, Goodridge, or the > Russell do or do not? > > Ken > 90si > > > At 08:35 AM 03/09/2002 -0700, you wrote: > >On 08:56 PM 09/02/02 -0400, George Freeman said... > > > >>Okay, okay, my stock rubber brake lines are aging and you've convinced me > >>it's time to replace. You mentioned Earl's Performance, but are there any > >>others recommended or is Earl's hands down the way to go? Also, what kind > >>of cost am I looking at and are there any gotchas in removing the original > >>lines (like broken ends, cracks in the lines, etc.)? > >> > >> > >> > >>George > >>'89 DX-Hybrid-D16Z6, 123k miles > >>"Seats, Suspension, Engine, MSD, next=dyno" > > > > > >(* snip *) > > > >I've been going with lines made by Earl's only because the place where I > >order/buy them from only stocks their lines. I have friends that have > >used SS lines made by Goodridge who have said that they were very happy > >with them.. > > > >What you need to check is the inner core of the lines to make sure they > >are not a rubber line with a SS sleeve. The inner core/line should be > >Teflon and don't let the skinny diameter of the line fool you either. And > >the lines should be a single solid piece. I have actually seen an SS line > >made by "I-have-no-clue" that came in two pieces where you connected them > >together in the middle (kind of like attaching two garden hoses). I was > >told that this was made this way so that you could make your own custom > >lengths by mixing and matching other lines made by them. > > > >Whatever... Give me the single solid line, please... > > > >Earl lines tend to be around $100 (USD) for a pair (so about $200 to do > >all four wheels). Others will be in the same price range. For around > >$20-$30 more, you can get the D.O.T. approved lines by Earl. > > > >Removing the old lines is very straight forward. I did have a problem in > >breaking them free from the caliper so I suggest that you use penetrating > >oil (i.e. Liquid Wrench) first and then attempt to break them loose. I > >also removed the line from the caliber first which then made it easier to > >remove the other end from the brake line. Installation was done in > >reverse where I installed it on the line first and then the caliper. I > >found it easier to do it that way to ensure that I had no kinks or twists > >in the line. For me to do all four by myself took about an hour (about > >the same time it would take to do a basic brake job) not count the time it > >took to jack the car up and place it on stands. Bleeding the system took > >a bit longer and I had the help of my wife of carefully (and slowly) > >pumped the brake pedal. > > > > > >Robert K. Kuhn > >CRX Owners Group President (http://www.crx.org/southcal) > > > >1990 Honda CRXsi (http://drive.to/jiggy) > >ICQ # 3714283 (nickname: godzilla) >
