On 10:19 PM 09/03/02 -0400, scott lemay said...
>I own a '91 CRX. Its not the Si, and I know its not the HF, so what is it?
The DX is the only other US model. Check the VIN. On the US Model, it
will be something like JHMED936xxxxxxxxx
Key:
JHM = Honda Motor Company
ED8 = Civic/CRX 1500cc
ED9 = Civic/CRX 1600cc
3 = 5 Speed (2 door coupe)
4 = 4 Speed (2 door coupe)
5 = DX (Standard CRX)
6 = HF, Si
The rest of the VIN indicates the year, factory from which it came and the
actual serial number.
The above example would be a Civic/CRX with a 1600cc engine, 5 speed Hf or
Si model.
I'm not 100% sure. but I think that only the DX and Si models were
available to the Canadian market.
>Also I was wondering if you know how I could do under hood polishing on
>the engine cover.
You'll have to remove the cover (be sure to use a new seal when you go to
put it back on again and be sure to torque it down which I think is 7 or 8
ft.lbs.) if you want to do it right. In which case you'll need to remove
the spark plugs (label the plug wires as a safety precaution) and then the
acorn nuts. If the timing belt cover is still on, you may have to loosen
the nuts that hold it on in order to remove the cylinder head cover.
If the cylinder head cover does not come off once the nuts are off, you can
use a rubber mallet/hammer and gently tap the side of the cover. DO NOT
USE A FLAT BLADE SCREWDRIVER!!! If you don't have a rubber mallet or
rubber hammer, use something similar such as a piece of wood (like a small
section of 2x4) and a hammer to gently knock the cover loose.
You shouldn't have a problem in removing the cover unless someone had used
a sealant along the lip (which you normally don't need to unless it's not
perfectly flat).
And, of course, remove anything else that may/might be attached to the
valve cover.
Once you get it off, you can try using paint thinner in a small area to see
if it removes it. But since it's powder coated, you may have to go with
something stronger like paint stripper or even diesel fuel (if you use
diesel fuel, use it in a well ventilated area!!! and be sure to clean it up
good before putting it back on the car).
If you want it done right, take it down either a paint & body shoppe and
have them media blast it or to a shoppe that does powder coating and have
them clean it up.
> Im not ready for the B16 or B18 swap yet (still need more money) but I
> do want my engine bay to look nice! So how could I do this, without me
> having to bring it into the shop, so I could save some money (and for
> bragging rights).
Get lots of clean rags, mild-soapy water and other non-toxic type cleaners
(such as a diluted mix of Simple Green). If you don't have an air
compressor, get some compressed air in a can (you may need to get a bunch)
to help blow away any crud. Use small soft brushes such as toothbrushes,
paint brushes (get the cheap paint brushes and cut some of the bristles
down to get a good scrubbing action) and maybe even a firm bristle cleaning
brush.
Use plastic bags to protect electricals from water. I would also recommend
that you remove the battery before you start the cleaning.
There are a number of engine degreasers you can buy. While they work very
well, lots of them are toxic and it's against the law in many Cities to
have that stuff empty out into the sewer system. So be sure to check the
can before you purchase them. I use to use the stuff made by Gunk which
worked very well. You basically clean up the engine as best you can, then
spray the stuff on and let it sit until the foaming bubbles
disappear. Then take a hose and spray down the engine (you have to cover
the distributor and any other electrical components first). Then you start
the engine up which will help it dry (you'll see steam and what appears to
be smoke as the engine comes up to temp).
Detailing an engine and the compartment is a lot of work especially if the
engine is still in the car but it can be done. You may even have to jack
the front up (be sure to support it on stands) and wiggle under the engine
to get some of the areas you can't reach from the top.
One last bit of advice... when you go to use a cleaner for the rubber hoses
and such, be sure to check and make sure it won't eat the rubber. Most
cleaners will have a list of warnings on it. If it doesn't, ask someone or
use it with caution. This is why I tend to use mild-soapy water (Dawn
liquid dish soap works the best).
> Thank you for your time!
>Member name: Gorkyman
>-Scott Lemay
Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes and take a before and after
picture for me. :^)
Robert K. Kuhn
CRX Owners Group President (http://www.crx.org/southcal)
1990 Honda CRXsi (http://drive.to/jiggy)
ICQ # 3714283 (nickname: godzilla)
