David,
Honestly, I would say to just keep it stock and do a rebuild on
that engine. My headgasket on my green CRX has been "oozing" like that
for the last couple of years, too. It concerns me a little, but that is
mainly an oil drain passage through that area near the distributor. Drop
a stock clutch in it, put new shocks/bushings on it, and it should feel
almost new again.
Ricky
On Wed, 20 Nov 2002, David Miller wrote:
> Is it just me or are things rather quiet on here lately? Maybe I just remember the
>good ole days about 5+ years ago when the list was generating 100+ e-mails a day!!
>
> I'm getting ready to turn over 200K miles on my '89 DX that I bought new 9/25/89.
>I'm currently at 199,93x.x miles. I've got digital camera in the car, ready to take
>that picture that has to be taken when you flip one over.
>
> Also, I need some advice.
>
> Let me lay a foundation, first of all.
> While this car previously saw a lot of autocross lots, it hasn't in a few years, and
>probably won't see that many more.
> It has finally started to develop some of the famous rear wheel arch rust.
> This is my "work" car, in that I normally drive it back and forth to work, 30 miles
>each way, each day.
>
> I plan on driving this car until:
> 1. My 15-year-old daughter wants to drive it next year, or
> 2. Until my 12-year-old daughter wants to drive in in a few years, or
> 3. Until it breaks apart from rust.
>
> I will continue to drive it in winter, and it will see salt from the road. I run
>Hakkapeliitta 1's on it, 175/70-14 for winter use. No problem with traction!!
>
> It may see some rallycross action, one a year, or so.
>
> Speed isn't important to me. My commute is 55 mph (I go 65, or so - V1 works
>great!!), on fairly desolate 4-lane road. Therefore, 2-lane passing isn't much of an
>issue. I've been averaging around 40-42 mpg the past few thousand miles, which is
>important.
>
> My head gasket is oozing some oil down the side of the block, not much, just enough
>to be annoying. Engine "appears" to use little, if any, oil. I have very little
>power below 3K rpm -- so much so, that it is a pain starting off from a stop at times.
>
> It's time for new belts, including timing belt.
> Clutch is worn. It has about 90K miles on it.
> Tranny is fine. Mainly just shift bushing wear.
>
> I can't see spending a bunch of $$$ for performance, so I want to keep this as
>cheap, and as reasonable as possible.
>
> I'll do all the labor myself, except for machine shop work. I've got air tools, and
>regular stuff.
>
> I'm planning on driving this winter, and parking in the Spring, to do some work on
>it. I need to get my shopping list together, and want to get all the pieces and
>parts that I'll need for it over the winter, so I'll be ready to go when the time
>comes. I have backup transportation if anything major should go wrong.
>
> Now - here's what I need the advice on:
>
> Engine
> - Should I just rebuild? Valve job ($125), new rings, hone, head gasket, etc.
>Probably around $250.
> - Go with a D16A6, and Si engine, 108 hp? Cost unknown, but I know folks have them
>"sitting" around. I'd have to do ECU and wiring mods for my DX harness.
> - Go with a D16Z6, a Civic Si engine, 125-7 hp? Cost, again unknown, and I'd have
>to do ECU and wiring.
> - Go with a ZC, 130 hp? Cost of engine, ECU, and wiring probably around $750????
>
> Tranny
> - I'm convinced that I want to keep the DX tranny for the gearing. Can anyone tell
>my of a reason not to based on what I've said above?
> - Maybe replace synchros, as a precaution, and seals?
> - Replace shift bushings - what kind, where do I get?
>
> Other things that I should do while it is apart? (shocks/struts/springs are fine.
>I'm fine on wheels/tires. I don't do "rice".)
>
> TIA-
>
> David Miller
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '89 CRX, DX, white, 199K miles (old faithful - GO CAR)
> '90 CRX, Si, yellow, 49K miles (sleeping - GO CAR2)
> '02 Civic, EX, ruby, 26K miles (wife's/family car)
> '94 Helix, black, 17K miles (scooting along at 70 mph!)
> '91 Dakota, red/silver, 110K miles (mulch hauler!)
>
