Ok guys and gals,
This has got me stumped. About a week ago, I started
having trouble with my idle speed surging from 800 rpm
to 2200 or higher, but only when at a stoplight or
sitting still for more than a couple of minutes,but it
doesnt do it until it warms up. So I checked timing,
installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. still no
help. Checked ECU for codes, throwing a code for
injector. Checked out resistance across injectors as
specified in Haynes manual, they check out fine. Reset
ECU and checked for new codes the next day. Now it
gives a code for MAP sensor, replced MAP sensor. Reset
ECU and drove to work. Now throwing code for throttle
position sensor, (ARGH pulling out hair now), replced
entire throttle body with spare. Reset ECU and went to
work. Started again on the way home. checked codes and
now i get a code for injector again. Before i replce
this injector again, does anyone have any clue as to
anything else that might be causing this problem. I
want to do the mpfi swap but dont have the cash to
outlay right now. I would appreciate any comments,
ideas or suggestions, before I shoot myself or my
rex.(LOL)
Thanks for taking time to read all of this crap :)
Gene
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Gene -
I had a similar battle with a previous car (my 1988 VW GTi) which took me four weeks to finally troubleshoot and fix. My problem also included engine misfiring while under load.
The first thing I found was a bad ground. I changed out the battery ground, engine ground and transmission ground. I also went and added an additional engine ground just to be sure.
Then the problem resurfaced and it was troubleshot to the OBC (On Board Computer). Unlike the CRX, the OBC is located in the engine compartment under a plastic splash and water shield (it sits literally next to the wiper motor and under one of the air vents). Said plastic shield had cracked and thus rain water managed to get in between the rubber boot and the connector to the OBC and thus was shorting out to where I needed to replace the OBC (and the plastic shield).
Prior to that, however, I found a whole bunch of things that could have contributed to the problem:
- Injector seals.
- Exhaust manifold gasket (which is PITA to do).
- Leaking Cold Start Valve (a sort of fuel injector that sits on the backside of the throttle body - when the engine is cold, it sprays fuel down the intake manifold to richen the fuel mixture. When the engine comes up to temp, said injector shuts off. Mine didn't and so it was dripping fuel down the intake thus flooding the engine).
- Coolant temp sender (which controls the Cold Start Valve).
- Air Control Valve (much like the EACV on the CRX).
- O2 sensor.
- Air leak at the fuel cap.
On the Porsche we use to have, if the oil cap was not air tight, it would cause the engine not to idle or at the very least idle really rough. This was because it would suck air into the crank case (basically be a HUGE vacuum leak).
While none of these may be the problem or a contributing factor, it may spark some inspiration while you are troubleshooting the problem.
If you get to the point where you feel that you've done and tried everything you can, consider taking it down to the local dealership and have them do a diagnostic on it. You're not obligated to have them do any repairs either. And it should be no more than one hour of labor. This will at least give you some additional insite as to what the problem may be.
Just a thought.
CRX Owners Group President (http://www.crx.org/southcal)
1990 Honda CRXsi (http://www.hooligan.cc)
ICQ # 3714283 (nickname: godzilla)
Alpine Drive (San Diego County) - December, 2002
http://www.crx.org/southcal/events.html
Or...
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=339727
