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>From the New Paradigms Project [Not Necessarily Endorsed]:

From: "Jesse Walker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Left Libertarian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [LeftLibertarian] Meaty Column
Date: Saturday, July 15, 2000 2:26 PM


A Meaty Column for July 4th
by Alexander Cockburn
Creators Syndicate, July 3, 2000

As a career carnivore, I was up at my freezer locker in my local town
taking an inventory of what I could use for the barbecue or spit or pit
(I was planning for all three options) for July Fourth. Hauling out the
goat frozen whole late last year, I started chatting with Bob, the
proprietor of this small, wholesale meat establishment, about the
sausage-maker in San Leandro, Calif., who'd just killed three government
food inspectors, two of them federal employees from the USDA, and one
from California's Department of Food and Agriculture.

On June 21, Stuart Alexander, proprietor of the Santos Linguisa Factory,
murdered these unfortunate regulators while failing to dispatch a
fourth, whom he'd vainly pursued down the road waving his pistol. He's
now awaiting trial. I remarked to Bob that Mr. Alexander seemed to have
had a rough passage with the food inspectors. At the time of the
killings, he was operating his factory without a license, and outside of
it was a defiant sign put up by Alexander complaining that he had been
unreasonably hassled by the health police.

Bob gave a sigh, and said that though, of course, the killings were a
dreadful business, he could understand why Alexander might have been
driven over the edge. Over the past three years, partly in response to
the outbreak of E. Coli in one unit of the Jack in the Box fast-food
chain, the USDA has been imposing a whole new batch of regulations, such
as higher temperatures for food processing.

"Frankly, Alex," Bob said, "if the standards imposed on small and medium
meat processors had stayed the way they were written at the end of last
year, I'd be out of business today, and so would about 90 percent of the
meat processors of my size."

The feds are red-taping small meat businesses into a nightmare labyrinth
of "voluntary compliance" schedules and record-keeping, most of which
are entirely unnecessary, and in some cases, entirely wrong-headed. Even
though there are strong arguments for maple chopping blocks, Bob and his
fellow butchers are forced to use either rubber or plastic surfaces that
sweat unhealthily and are hell on knives.

No surprises here. A lot of the history of food regulation in this
country has turned out to be a way to finish off small, high-quality
producers by demanding they invest in whatever big-ticket items the USDA
happens to be in love with at the time; said love objects usually
turning out to be whatever the big food processors are using. That's the
reason why it's hard to get decent sausages or hams.

There have been health problems down the years, there's no denying. The
meat inspection act of 1906 gave inspectors from the Department of
Agriculture the power to inspect meat-packing. The act was passed after
public outcry following the publication of Upton Sinclair's "The Jungle."

Sinclair was hoping to expose the horrible degradation of workers in the
slaughterhouses. "The Jungle" had some grim stuff about rats in the cold
rooms where the meat was stored. The public was unmoved about the
packers, but very concerned over rats in the sausage. Teddy Roosevelt
successfully turned the shock over these new inhumane food factories
into a small "consumer protection" issue. The meat inspectors became
readily domesticated by the meat factory owners, but could take out
their frustrations when dealing with small, one-of-a-kind artisans. The
same lap-dog inspector who could be marched across the killing floors of
Armour or Swift without raising a bleat became a mighty lion of public
health when dealing with a deal butcher or sausage maker.

The big packers and processing plants get to participate directly in the
writing of the laws that set the standard practices that the inspectors
march out to enforce on all the little producers not part of the Meat Syndicate.

Remember, over 70 percent of the hamburgers, wieners, beef or pork ribs,
chickens and butterflied lamb legs on those July Fourth grills will have
gone through one of only 10 packing companies across the country. These
big packers are cozy with presidents and governors and chairmen of
congressional committees. The day that they decide the only safe sausage
is a nuked sausage, only sausages labeled "Real" (the official symbol
for irradiated food) will be legal. Until then, the name of the game for
the regulators is to find out what machines and temperatures are
standard for Big Meat, and rush out to close the little folk down if
they have not already bankrupted themselves by having to buy the new equipment.

I have friends in the coffee business who run a couple of espresso
drive-throughs, and are regularly driven crazy by the health regulators,
who can suddenly require that they dump all their milk because it's 2
degrees too warm, even though the places are so busy the milk is
delivered daily.

Wherever you are, compare the espresso vendor with the hot dog vendor on
your street corner. So confident in the USDA-inspected-and-approved
sausage - the dead little sausage appropriately called "wiener" - are
local health departments that pretty much any hot dog stand at all is
readily approved. And for good reason. Hot dogs have been found in
perfect condition buried in landfills. This is not considered a sign of
worry or consternation about hot dog standards, but a triumph of modern chemistry.

COPYRIGHT 2000 CREATORS SYNDICATE INC.


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