-Caveat Lector-

Life in Palestine
Lucy Mair, writing from Jerusalem
12 February 2003

How do I describe what life is like here - of the
sadness in the eyes of my colleagues, of the
exhaustion that results when every daily action
requires an extraordinary effort, when perseverance
is no longer enough and futility and despair fight
for a place on the proud faces carrying bags
and babies and the burden of poverty through
checkpoints, over dirt piles, past soldiers and
tanks and the bombed-out shells of buildings.

On rainy days the muddy water swells around
the feet, slowing passage. The soldiers stand
in shelters and never seem to get wet under
their helmets and uniforms and weapons, protected
by arrogance and hatred and a state and an army
and the world's superpower.

They pull people out of the battered Ford Transit
vehicles that always seem to drive too fast to
make up for lost time, jostling the school children
and old men and mothers who ride in them, if they
can afford the 3 shekel fare and if they are not
males between the ages of 18 and 35 and if they
have permission to enter Jerusalem and if there
is no curfew or closure. The soldiers line them up,
face to the wall, make them sit in the dirt, or stand
in the rain or the scorching sun for minutes or
hours while they chat on their mobile friends,
joke with their friends, eat, smoke, laugh, abuse,
with words and with actions.

How do I explain that when the wind blows it
does not bring respite from the heat, but rather
fills the mouth and the nose with grit, ripe with
the smell of sewage and garbage and exhaust
fumes. An Israeli woman asks "Why don't they
clean up their streets?" "Why do they live like
animals?" And the children play in the refuse
that can never be collected in villages and towns
and cities which remain for hours and days and
weeks and months under crippling curfews.
Curfews which are enforced with a shoot-to-kill
policy. Curfews which are not lifted during
school hours. Curfews which prevent pregnant
women from giving birth in hospitals, which
stop ambulances in their tracks, which forced
a Bethlehem family to live with the decaying
corpse of their family member for days.

How can I express the feeling of death that
lurks around every corner - of the children shot
on their way home from school, of the old
woman killed while sitting on her porch, of the
people in Gaza killed in their homes when the
bomb was dropped on their apartment building,
of the refugees killed in their homes in Jenin
when the tanks and the bulldozers ate up their
camp, razing houses on top of their inhabitants,
of people killed in taxis and on sidewalks when
the Israelis carry out "preventive pinpointed
killings".

How do I tell the story of refugees made homeless
for the 3rd or 4th time, of the woman who throws
up her hands, in the middle of her house, with the
gaping holes from the bulldozers in the wall, and
the windows shot out by snipers, and the rooms
filled with the debris of a family's life, and begs me
to tell the people of the US to please make it stop,
this terrible nightmare.

And wipes away my tears which I am ashamed
to shed, and hugs me and gives me some of the
precious drinking water that is so hard to come
by in Rafah these days since the wells have been
destroyed. And the people next door who invite
us in for coffee, while sewage washes past the
steps of their battered home which is sure to be
demolished, standing as it is on the front line of
Rafah, empty land where the next row of houses
once stood. And the farmers chased from their
olive trees by armed settlers and the people in
Hebron who live with sandbags blocking their
windows because the settlers have shot the glass
out so many times, and my colleague who only
sees his 4 adoring children, once a week, because
the closures make the distance between his home
and his work, just 30 KM apart, a 4 hour journey.

How can I show the faces behind the statistics
- 70% unemployment,
- 75% poverty,
- 13% malnutrition in children under five.

The number of dead, and injured, and blinded,
and handicapped, in wheelchairs, and hospital
beds and orphaned and homeless. The children
that play funeral in the schoolyard, or ambulance
stopped at the checkpoint, or soldier abusing
passersby. The number of school days missed
and the number of schools invaded and closed
and the number of teachers who can't get to
work and the number of students who can't
afford to return to university. And the number
of people in administrative detention, held without
charge, without trial, without lawyers, without
family visits, in tents without adequate food and
water and sanitation and protection from the
elements.

And the number of trees uprooted, and dunums
of land raised and kilometers of bypass roads built
and wells destroyed. And of the courage and the
dignity and the determination and the family who
rebuilds their house again and again, each time
it is demolished. And of the fear and the loss and
the humiliation and the despair that has robbed
even the living of their lives.

---<>---<>---<>---

Lucy Mair works for Grassroots International,
a US-based progressive funding and solidarity
organization which provides support to eight
Palestinian NGOs in occupied Palestine.

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