-Caveat Lector-

Holy Cow: Beef in Indian Dietary Traditions
By D N Jha
Published by Matrix
---------------------
http://www.tehelka.com (27th July)

The Elusive 'Holy Cow'

In an explosive essay, D N Jha, Professor of History at the University of
Delhi, argues that the image of the cow projected by Indian textual
traditions, especially the Brahmanical-Dharmasastric works, over the
centuries is polymorphic. Its story through the millennia is riddled with
inconsistencies and has not always been in conformity with dietary
practices current in our society. As Jha points out, "Even today 72
communities in Kerala-not all of them untouchable perhaps-prefer beef to
the expensive mutton and the Hindutva forces are persuading them to go
easy on it."

This essay forms the last chapter of DN Jha's forthcoming book Holy Cow:
Beef in Indian Dietary Traditions. After being rejected by several
publishing houses because of its 'controversial' content, the book will
finally be published by Matrix Books (on August 8th), a new small press
committed to the publication of brave and offbeat academic research.

Several points emerge from our limited survey of the textual evidence,
mostly drawn from Brahmanical sources from the Rgveda onwards. In the
first place, it is clear that the early Aryans, who migrated to India from
outside, brought along with them certain cultural elements. After their
migration into the Indian subcontinent pastoralism, nomadism and animal
sacrifice remained characteristic features of their life for several
centuries until sedentary field agriculture became the mainstay of their
livelihood.  Animal sacrifices were very common, the most important of
them being the famous asvamedha and rajasuya. These and several other
major sacrifices involved the killing of animals including cattle, which
constituted the chief form of the wealth of the early Aryans. Not
surprisingly, they prayed for cattle and sacrificed them to propitiate
their gods. The Vedic gods had no marked dietary preferences. Milk,
butter, barley, oxen, goats and sheep were their usual food, though some
of them seem to have had their special preferences. Indra had a special
liking for bulls. Agni was not a tippler like Indra, but was fond of the
flesh of horses, bulls and cows. The toothless Pusan, the guardian of the
roads, ate mush as a Hobson's choice. Soma was the name of an intoxicant
but, equally important, of a god, and killing animals (including cattle)
for him was basic to most of the Rgvedic yajnas. The Maruts and the Asvins
were also offered cows. The Vedas mention about 250 animals out of which
at least 50 were deemed fit for sacrifice, by implication for divine as
well as human consumption. The Taittiriya Brahmana categorically tells us:
'Verily the cow is food' (atho annam via gauh) and Yajnavalkya's
insistence on eating the tender (amsala) flesh of the cow is well known.
Although there is reason to believe that a brahmana's cow may not have
been killed, that is no index of its inherent sanctity in the Vedic period
or even later.

The subsequent Brahmanical texts (e.g. Grhyasutras and Dharmasutras)
provide ample evidence of the eating of flesh including beef. Domestic
rites and rituals associated with agricultural and other activities
involved the killing of cattle. The ceremonial welcome of guests
(sometimes known as arghya but generally as madhupurka) consisted not only
of a meal of a mixture of curds and honey but also of the flesh of a cow
or bull.

Early lawgivers go to the extent of making meat mandatory in the
madhuparka-an injunction more or less dittoed by several later legal
texts.  The sacred thread ceremony for its part was not all that sacred;
for it was necessary for a snataka to wear an upper garment of cowhide.

The slaughter of animals formed an important component of the cult of the
dead in the Vedic texts. The thick fat of the cow was used to cover the
corpse and a bull was burnt along with it to enable the departed to ride
in the nether world. Funerary rites include the feeding of brahmanas after
the prescribed period and quite often the flesh of the cow or ox was
offered to the dead. The textual prescriptions indicate the degree of
satisfaction obtained by the ancestors' souls according to the animals
offered-cow meat could keep them content for at least a year! The Vedic
and the post-Vedic texts often mention the killing of animals including
the kine in the ritual context. There was, therefore, a relationship
between the sacrifice and sustenance. But this need not necessarily mean
that different types of meat were eaten only if offered in sacrifice.
Archaeological evidence, in fact, suggests non-ritual killing of cattle.
This is indicative of the fact that beef and other animal flesh formed
part of the dietary culture of people and that edible flesh was not always
ritually consecrated.

The idea of ahimsa seems to have made its first appearance in the
Upanisadic thought and literature. There is no doubt that Gautama Buddha
and Mahavira vehemently challenged the efficacy of the Vedic animals
sacrifice, although a general aversion to beef and other kinds of animal
flesh is not borne out by Buddhist and Jaina texts. Despite the fact that
the Buddha espoused the cause of ahmisa, he is said to have died after
eating a meal of pork (sukaramaddava). Asoka's compassion for animals is
undeniable, though cattle were killed for food during the Mauryan period
as is evident from the Arthasastra of Kautilya and Asoka's own list of
animals exempt from slaughter, which, significantly, does not include the
cow. The Buddhists in India and outside continued to eat various types of
meat including beef even in later times, often inviting unsavoury
criticism from the Jainas. In Lahul, for example, Buddhists eat beef,
albeit secretly, and in Tibet they eat cows, sheep, pigs and yak.

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