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  ISRAELI/US POLICIES PAST AND PRESENT CREATING CATACLYSMIC FUTURE

                   "They don't even talk about Arafat any more... 
                   There's only one joke going the rounds about 
                   him. Arafat is at Camp David and the Israelis 
                   are demanding that he 'ends the violence'.  
                   And Arafat replies: 'I can't end the violence 
                   until I can stop my lips from trembling.'" 
                   Arafat's growing senility is a source of 
                   deepening concern....

                   "Everywhere in Gaza, you notice the signs 
                   of collapse, of incipient anarchy." 

                   "...we forget that this is the only colonial 
                   project still in existence � the French word for 
                   settlers, colons, is more accurate � and this 
                   battle between Palestinians and Israelis is
                   the world's last colonial war. As long as the 
                   Israelis can puff it up as a 'war against terror', 
                   they'll be able to conceal this."

MID-EAST REALITIES - MER - www.MiddleEast.Org - Washington - 8/29/01:
     Gaza is the largest prison in the world.  Most of its one million plus 
inhabitants, in a sense inmates, have never been let out.  Whether the term be 
"ghetto" or "concentration camp" or just "prison",  the historical parallels are all 
too damning.  And now that the neo-apartheid realities of Israel's "military 
occupation" are finally exposed -- disguised by the gullible and complicitous 
corporate media as "the peace process" in years past -- an expanding racial, 
religious, and tribal conflict fueled by hate, fear, and revenge lies ahead.  That is 
what happens when you subject a people to imprisonment, to brutality, to lawlessness, 
to savagery, and to international duplicity, for generations; as has been done to the 
Arab people of Palestine.  
     It's already not safe, soon it may not be possible, for concerned Americans and 
Europeans to go to Gaza to really see for themselves.  Fortunately exceptionally 
courageous and talented journalists like Robert Fisk are making the trip for us all 
and brilliantly presenting the horrifying results to us all.  
     Make sure to read this article slowly and carefully.  Let the images and the 
insights seep into rather than bounce off of your consciousness...and your conscience. 
  Let the realities of what is happening in our time haunt your soul; for we are all 
now witness to and participants in a present, with tragic and deep roots in the past, 
that is creating a possibly cataclysmic future yet to come.



   TRAVEL IN A LAND WITHOUT HOPE
                   By Robert Fisk

     In his 25 years as a foreign correspondent, 
     Robert Fisk has reported from many of the 
     world's worst trouble-spots. Few have filled 
     him with such foreboding as Gaza, where he 
     recently spent several weeks. These are his 
     impressions of a region convulsed by hatred

[The Independent, UK, 29 August 2001]:
There wasn't a scrap of Inas Abu Zein left. She was
only seven, and the martyrs posters already going up
around Khan Younis show her to have been a small,
delicate-featured little girl. But there wasn't a
trace of her amid the fragments of corrugated iron and
plastic, not in the soft brown Gaza sand. Inas had
been atomised, turned to dust in a millisecond. "I
will show you where the missile came from," a
whey-faced boy told me, pointing far across the sand
to where a clutch of hovels � old concrete huts with
rag windows and flapping, sand-caked washing � stood
near the horizon. "The Israelis fired from behind
those houses. It was a tank."

Was it so? I said that to myself, not as a question
but as another of those little remarks you find
yourself making in Gaza. Lie? Truth? Do they matter
when a war has grown so brutal, so cruel as this?
Inas's father Sulieman died with her. So did his
six-year-old son, also named Sulieman. I don't think
I've come across a war in which children are killed so
quickly. If it's not an Israeli baby in a Palestinian
sniper's crosshairs, it's two pesky Palestinian kids
stupid enough to stand outside a Hamas office when the
Israelis have chosen to blow the place away, or
schoolkids who decide to take an early afternoon
pizza, or Inas and Sulieman junior who got in the way
or � if Hamas was lying and the Israelis are telling
the truth � were turned to wet dust by their father's
bomb.

The Palestinian Authority had made a clean sweep of
the Abu Zeins' back yard. If he was making a bomb, it
had disappeared, like Inas. I poked around amid the
desert trash. There were some pulverised bits of
plastic roofing, more corrugated metal. The explosion,
in the late evening, must have occurred beneath the
plastic. How could an Israeli missile fly over the
other huts, turn the corner outside the Abu Zeins'
back yard, pass over the yard walls and then dip below
the plastic roof to blow the family apart? But who
would make a bomb with his two tiny children standing
next to him? Or maybe there was a bomb hidden at the
back of the yard and Inas or Sulieman junior touched it.

A little crowd had gathered round us, unsmiling,
suspicious. It's not so easy now to investigate these
deaths. "I'm Norwegian, but Palestinians have started
to look at me in the street and talk about me as if
I'm an American," a smiling Norwegian lady aid worker
told me. "They blame the Americans for what the
Israelis do. And now they blame the Europeans because
we do nothing to help them." Which is exactly what
happened to foreigners in Lebanon 15 years ago. The
Norwegian lady was right. I was watched as I walked
through the street in Gaza City, scrutinised by small
crowds in Rafah. At Kalandia � just outside Jerusalem,
on the road to Ramallah � a Palestinian boy of perhaps
12 looked at my car's Israeli registration plates,
picked up an iron bar and smashed it as hard as he
could on to the back mudguard. Two men in a truck � we
were all waiting at one of Israel's humiliating
checkpoints � jeered at me.

Everywhere in Gaza, you notice the signs of collapse,
of incipient anarchy. The murals used to show Yasser
Arafat's beaming, ugly mug and pictures of the Al Aqsa
mosque. Now they are filled with exploding buses and
dead children and Israeli soldiers on their backs with
blood squirting from their heads. "They don't even
talk about Arafat any more," a Palestinian caf� owner
says to me as three horse-drawn water carts clop
lazily past us. "There's only one joke going the
rounds about him. Arafat is at Camp David and the
Israelis are demanding that he 'ends the violence'.
And Arafat replies: 'I can't end the violence until I
can stop my lips from trembling.'"

Arafat's growing senility is a source of deepening
concern. Not far from Hebron, I meet a prominent
Palestinian figure, important enough to require
anonymity in this context, who shakes his head in
despair. "What can Arafat do now? His marriage is in
bits � he's only seen his wife for three minutes in
the past 10 months. His child needs a father and he's
not there. And he's allowing the whole place to
tribalise and disintegrate. There is complete
disintegration here."

It's true. On the road south of Nablus, a yellow
Palestinian taxi is hit by a stone � apparently thrown
by an Israeli driver in an oncoming car, or that's
what the cops thought � and careers off the road. Its
driver, Kemal Mosalem, is killed outright. But when
his body arrives at the Rafidiye hospital, his family
apparently believe he has been killed by a rival
Palestinian clan led by Ali Frej. The two families
have been feuding over control of the local branch of
Fatah (the dominant faction of the PLO). The Frej
family then ambush the grieving Mosalem family with
Kalashnikov rifles. Among the four Palestinian dead
are Ali Frej and a Fatah official who had been part of
Jibril Rajoub's "preventative security" outfit. Six
others are wounded. These are Arafat's people. They
are killing each other. And Arafat remains silent.

Yet here's the thing. Ariel Sharon keeps saying that
Arafat is a murderer, a super-terrorist, the leader of
"international terror", linked to Osama bin Laden, a
man who gives orders for the murder of kids in pizza
parlours. And the Israeli public are buying this,
their journalists front-paging it, their people
repeating it over and over. Talking to Israelis � in
taxis, on aeroplanes, in caf�s � I keep hearing the
same stuff. Terror, murder, filth. Like a cassette.
Where have I heard this before?

In Gaza, I cannot fail to remember Beirut in 1982,
when Sharon's invading army had surrounded the PLO.
Gaza now is a miniature Beirut. Under Israeli siege,
struck by F-16s and tank fire and gunboats, starved
and often powerless � there are now six-hour
electricity cuts a day � it's as if Arafat and Sharon
are replaying their bloody days in Lebanon. And Sharon
used to call Arafat a mass murderer back then. It's
important not to become obsessed during wars. But
Sharon's words were like a ghost to me. Every morning
in these past few weeks, I would pick up the Jerusalem
Post. And there on the front page, as usual, would be
another Sharon diatribe. PLO murderers, Palestinian
Authority terror. Murderous terrorists.

Each day, I travel to the scene of new Israeli
incursions. The Israelis bomb Palestinian police
stations, Palestinian security annexes, Palestinian
police positions. Why the police? I drive round the
Gaza Strip with an old friend from the Beirut war, a
European aid worker who still bears the webbed scar of
a bullet in his arm and stomach � the round punctured
his spleen and liver. "Now if you look to your right,
Bob, there's the police station that the Israelis
bombed two weeks ago," he says. There's a mass of
burned-out rooms and a crumpled office. "And just
round the corner here is the police post the Israelis
hit last week." More trashed buildings. "And down that
road you can just see the Palestinian offices that
were hit in July." After the early raids, the
Palestinians would do a quick rebuilding and
repainting job. Now they no longer bother. But how can
Arafat "arrest the murderers" if the Israelis are
going to destroy all his police stations?

There was a story told to me by one of the men
investigating Sharon's responsibility for the Sabra
and Chatila massacre, that the then Israeli defence
minister � before he sent his Phalangist allies into
the Sabra and Chatila camps � announced that
Palestinian "terrorists" had murdered the Phalangists'
newly assassinated leader, president-elect Bashir
Gemayel. Sharon was to say later that he never dreamed
the Phalange would massacre the Palestinians. But how
could he say that if he had claimed earlier that the
Palestinians killed the leader of the Phalange? In
reality, no Palestinians were involved. It might seem
odd in this new war to be dwelling on that earlier
blood-letting. But I was fascinated by the language.
Murderers, terrorists. That's what Sharon said then.
And that's what he says now. Did he really make that
statement in 1982? I began to work the phone from
Jerusalem, calling up Associated Press bureaux that
might still have their files from 19 years ago. He
would have made that speech � if indeed he used those
words � some time on 15 September.

One Sunday afternoon, my phone rings in Jerusalem.
It's from an American Jewish man whom I met in Jaffa
Street after the Hamas suicide bomber blew himself and
15 Israeli civilians to pieces on 9 August. An Israeli
woman had been screaming abuse at me � foreign
journalists are being insulted by both sides with ever
more violent language � and this man suddenly
intervenes to protect me. He's smiling and cheerful �
courageous might be the right word after the atrocity
that had just been committed � and we exchange phone
numbers. Now on the phone, he says he's taking the El
Al night flight back home to New York with his wife.
Would I like to drop by for tea before he goes?

He turns out to have a luxurious apartment next to the
King David Hotel and I notice, when I read his name on
the outside security buzzer, that he's a rabbi. He's
angry because a neighbour has just let down a friend's
car tyres in the underground parking lot and he's
saying how he felt like smashing the windows of the
neighbour's car. His wife, bringing me tea and feeding
me cookies, says that her husband � again, he should
remain anonymous � gets angry very quickly. There's a
kind of gentleness about them both � how easy it is to
spot couples who are still in love � that is
appealing. But when the rabbi starts to talk about the
Palestinians, his voice begins to echo through the
apartment. He says several times that Sharon is a good
friend of his, a fine man, who's been to visit him in
his New York office.

"What we should do is go into those vermin pits and
take out the terrorists and murderers. Vermin pits,
yes, I said vermin, animals. I tell you what we should
do. If one stone is lobbed from a refugee camp, we
should bring the bulldozers and tear down the first 20
houses close to the road. If there's another stone,
another 20 houses. They'd soon learn not to throw
stones. Look, I tell you this. Stones are lethal. If
you throw a stone at me, I'll shoot you. I have the
right to shoot you."

Now, the rabbi is a generous man. He'd been in Israel
to donate a vastly important � and, I have no doubt,
vastly expensive � medical centre to the country. He
was well-read. And I liked the fact that, unlike too
many Israelis and Palestinians who put on a
"we-only-want-peace" routine to hide more savage
thoughts, he at least spoke his mind. But this was
getting out of hand. Why should I throw a stone at the
rabbi? He shouted again. "If you throw a stone at me,
I will shoot you." But if you throw a stone at me, I
won't shoot you, I said. Because I have the right not
to shoot you. He frowned. "Then I'd say you're out of
your mind."

I was driving home when it suddenly hit me. The Old
and New Testaments had just collided. The rabbi's dad
had taught him about an eye for an eye � or 20 homes
for a stone, in this case � whereas my dad had taught
me about turning the other cheek. Judaism and
Christianity had collided. So was it any surprise that
Judaism and Islam were colliding? For despite all the
talk of Christians and Jews being "people of the
Book", Muslims are beginning to express ever harsher
views of Jews. The sickening Hamas references to Jews
as "the sons of pigs and monkeys" are echoed by
Israelis who talk of Palestinians as cockroaches, who
tell you � as my friend the rabbi did to me � that
Islam is a warrior religion, a religion that does not
value human life. And I recalled several times the
Jewish settler who told me back in 1993 � in Gaza,
just before the Oslo accords were signed � that "we do
not recognise their Koran as a valid document".

Now it's my turn to get angry. I walk out of the
Independent's office and home in the Jerusalem suburb
of Abu Tor to find my car surrounded by glass. The
driver's window has been smashed, the radio torn out.
It is plastered with "TV" stickers, in the hope that
Palestinian gunmen and Israeli soldiers will not open
fire. Abu Tor is mostly Arab although the
Independent's house is right on the old green line,
Arabs to the right of the front door, mostly Jews to
the left. I drive down to the Hertz rental agency,
sitting on piles of glass. The girl tells me that to
avail of Hertz's insurance, I have to report the
robbery to the police. She tells me to go to the
Russian Compound.

I know a bit about the Russian Compound from Amnesty's
reports. This is where most of the Israeli torture
goes on, the infamous, and occasionally deadly,
"shaking" of suspected Palestinian "terrorists". It
should be an interesting trip. The moment I park my
car, a loudspeaker shrieks at me in Hebrew. A cop
tells me that for security reasons I have to park
round the corner. No trouble with that. I watch two
big police vans with sealed windows pass through the
security barrier. I park and return to the door.
"Where was your car robbed?" I was asked. Just outside
the office, in Abu Tor, I replied. The policewoman
shrugged. "Well, what do you expect?" she asked. I
understood what she meant. Abu Tor is mostly Arab,
Palestinian. And Arabs rob, don't they, they steal car
radios as well as blow up pizzerias. I waited for an
hour. There was no cop to make out a report, although
there were more than 200 surrounding Orient House,
half a mile away across the city.

I spent three days watching the pathetic
demonstrations that followed Israel's seizure of the
PLO offices. Hanan Ashrawi, the senior PLO spokeswoman
and politician, turned up to demand the right to
enter. She was refused. But she came a day late, when
most of the TV cameras had gone. Always late, the
Palestinians.

But even when the cameras were there, it didn't stop
the border police turning on several Palestinian
youths. They were beaten in front of the cameras,
groined and punched and head-locked by six cops. One
was laid in a van where he was held down so that
another policemen could stamp on his testicles. A
young security man couldn't take his eyes off this
vile scene, bending down low, right in front of me, to
see where the other cop's boot was landing between the
youth's thighs. How could they do this in front of the
cameras? I kept asking myself. And then the dark
thought occurred to me: that the police want the
cameras to film this, that they want the Palestinians
to see what happens to them when they oppose Israel,
when they demonstrate, when they object � as one boy
did � by holding up a paper Palestinian flag.

I think it's the psychological shock of violence that
always hits first. The sudden realisation that human
beings are going to hurt each other. It afflicts
everyone in this conflict. I had been attending the
funeral of a Hamas man in Tulkarem, in the north of
the occupied West Bank, and was returning to my taxi,
which was parked on the Israeli side of the line. On
the map of the West Bank and Gaza � a broken window of
settler roads and frontiers � Area A is supposed to be
Palestinian-controlled and Area C Israeli-controlled.
When I'd crossed from Area C to Area A in the morning,
the road was a litter of garbage and stones. But when
I returned, there was a battle in progress, kids
throwing stones at Israeli positions, rubber-coated
steel bullets thwacking back through the trees,
burning tyres.

I was tired and hungry and impatient to return to
Jerusalem. So I grabbed the boys beside the burning
tyres and told them I was a journalist, that I had to
cross back through the line. I found two more sinister
figures lurking in a wrecked bus shelter. I told them
the same. Then I walked between the burning tyres
towards the unseen Israelis, slowly, almost a dawdle.
Then a stone landed at my feet. Just a very small
stone, but it landed with a nasty little crack. Then,
when I turned round, another hissed past my face. One
of the Palestinian boys began to shriek with laughter.
I kept walking slowly and realised that I would have
physically to dodge each well-aimed stone calmly, as
if it was perfectly normal for an Independent
correspondent to be stoned by Palestinians on a hot
summer's afternoon. The road ran parallel with Area A
now, and a teenager with a sling-shot came crashing
through the trees � I could hear the whir of the rope.
The stone came towards me so fast that I couldn't
duck, but it missed me by about a foot and smashed
into the iron wall of an Israeli factory. The crash
made me look around. I was in the middle of an
abandoned garden shop, surrounded by pots and cement
eagles and deer and tree-holders. One of the eagles
had lost its head. Then three more stones, maybe 8in
long. I realised what had happened, of course. The
Palestinians knew I was a foreign journalist � I had
shown them my Lebanese press card. But the moment I
crossed the line, I had become an Israeli. The moment
they could no longer distinguish my face, they no
longer cared. I was an Israeli because I was on the
Israeli side of the line. And I wonder what my friend
the rabbi would have done.

Back in Jerusalem, I work the phone again, trying to
track down that elusive quotation. If you call people
animals, terrorists, vermin, can you be surprised when
they behave so violently? Is it any wonder that Arafat
is himself tribalising the garbage tips he still
controls, playing the Musris and Nabulsis of Nablus
off against each other, backing the Shakars of Nablus
and the Shawars of Gaza, placating Hamas or Islamic
Jihad by saying nothing about their organisations,
merely issuing routine condemnation of suicide
bombings, and by mouthing the old revolutionary
rhetoric I used to hear in Lebanon 20 years ago? Some
say he is now frightened of the religious men, fearful
of the contrast between the ideology of the suicide
bomber and the tired, inept, corrupt old men who
surround him. I found one of them in an office,
swigging from a beer bottle.

And I think of Lebanon again, of the disintegration of
armies. And I realise, each time I see their
checkpoints and their beatings, that the Israeli army
is suffering its own disintegration; you notice it
everywhere, the sullen, violent soldiers for whom
stone-throwers are worthy of execution, the
indiscipline of the police, the casual acceptance of
murder squads and death-by-missile.

On the way to Jenin, we are stopped by Israeli border
guards. On the sweaty road, we call the Israeli army
press office for permission to pass. There's a small
Jewish settlement up the hill, all red roofs and
luscious foliage. It's strange how naturally we treat
these little land-thefts now. By calling them
settlements and their inhabitants "settlers", we all
help to perpetuate a lie, that these people are in the
Old West tradition, making the badlands bloom, ready
to fight off the natives. And we forget that this is
the only colonial project still in existence � the
French word for settlers, colons, is more accurate �
and this battle between Palestinians and Israelis is
the world's last colonial war. As long as the Israelis
can puff it up as a "war against terror", they'll be
able to conceal this. But we should be using the word
"colony". Just as the French did before they were
driven out of Algeria.

Then the border guards get bored. One of them switches
on the Jeep's loudspeaker and hooks the mike to his
mobile phone and begins playing the music "hold"
button. Three lines of the 1812 Overture, three lines
of Beethoven's Fifth, three lines of the Water Music,
all squawking out at high decibels, distorted and
high-pitched, spilling its hi-tech destruction of the
world's greatest musicians over the sweltering road
with its lizards and bushes and garbage.

It's a relief to find sanity. On a flight into Tel
Aviv I find myself sitting next to an Israeli
paratroop officer. I give him my own gloomy assessment
� an "intifada" that will go on until 2004. He says it
will last well into 2006. "And in the end, we'll be
back on the '67 border and give them East Jerusalem as
their capital," he says. And then he adds: "But given
the way we're treating them, I'd be surprised if
they'd settle for that." I ask a Palestinian in Rafah
what he thinks. "Two thousand and five, 2006, what
difference does it make? But I tell you one thing.
After this 'intifada' is over, there will be a revolt
against Arafat. How did he ever allow this to happen?
How did he ever think he could win?"

And again I remember Beirut. After Arafat and the PLO
left Lebanon in 1982, a rebellion started among his
own guerrillas. A man called Abu Moussa turned
Palestinian against Palestinian, helping to lay siege
to the PLO when Arafat briefly returned to the
Lebanese city of Tripoli. The Syrians chose Abu Moussa
as mutineer � he still lives in Damascus � and so I
find myself asking who is the new Abu Moussa? Have the
Israelis chosen him yet?

I am driving again through Gaza. Beside the road, a
group of middle-aged men are sitting under a green
awning; some have their heads in their hands, others
are just looking at the sand. They are mourning
Mohamed Abu Arrar, shot in the head by an Israeli
soldier while throwing stones. He was just 13.

Every wall has become a mosaic of posters: dead
youths, dead old men, dead children, dead women, dead
suicide bombers; usually they have a coloured
photograph of the Al Aqsa mosque behind their heads, a
building some of them will never have seen.

Just outside Khan Younis, the Israelis have bulldozed
acres of citrus groves and houses � for "security"
reasons, of course, since there is a Jewish settlement
in the distance � and left yet another bit of
"Palestine" looking like the moon. "Well, they say
it's for security of course," a European official
tells me. "But I have a question. There were three
houses standing over there, one of them was finished
and lived in, the other two were still just walls and
roofs. The Israelis said they could be used for
ambushes. So a bulldozer comes and totally demolishes
the completed home, and then just destroys the
staircase of the two unfinished houses. Now, how can
that be for 'security'?"

Down at Rafah, I come across the truly surreal. A
middle-aged man steps out of a tent right on the
border � the Egyptian flag behind him almost touching
the Israeli flag � and asks me if I would like to see
the ruins of his toy shop. And there it is, right
beside the tent, a tumble of concrete blocks, model
telephones, lampshades, clocks, toy helicopters and
one large outsize till. "The Israelis destroyed it in
May and I stayed till the very last moment, running
into that alleyway when the tanks arrived," he says.
Mohamed al-Shaer, it turns out, is a Palestinian with
an Egyptian passport. "I've got one house over there
behind the palm tree," he says, pointing across the
Israeli frontier wall. "And I'm here to guard this
property." He's allowed to pass back and forth like
other dual-citizen Rafah residents because of a 1906
agreement between the Ottoman Empire and Britain that
he proceeds to explain in complex and unending detail.
Behind him, children are flying kites and � each time
a kite floats over the frontier wire � an Israeli
soldier fires a shot. It cracks across the muck and
sand and the children shout with pleasure.
"Cra-crack", it goes again. "They always shoot at the
kites or the kids," Mohamed al-Shaer says. He learnt
his English as a computer programmer in Cairo and
explains fluently that the real reason he stays is
that he has a brother whom he distrusts, that the
brother lives on the Palestinian side of Rafah and
might re-register the land on which the shop was built
as his own if Mohamed returned to Egypt. Every night,
Palestinians shoot from these streets at the Israelis
� which is why the Israelis destroyed Mohamed
al-Shaer's shop. "These were the bullet holes from
last night," he says, pointing at three fist-sized
cavities in the wall of the nearest building. "I could
hear the bullets going over my tent." I wonder how
this little cameo can be written: a Palestinian at war
with his own brother, sitting in a tent next to a
demolished toy shop watching the Israelis shooting at
kites.

I call up an old friend, an American Jewish woman with
a talent for going through archives. I give her the
date that is still going through my head, 15 September
1982, the last hours for up to 2,000 Palestinians who
were about to be murdered in the Sabra and Chatila
camps in Beirut. She comes back on the line the same
night. "Turn your fax on," Shifra says. "You're going
to want to read this." The paper starts to crinkle out
of the machine. An AP report of 15 September 1982.
"Defence Minister Ariel Sharon, in a statement, tied
the killing [of the Phalangist leader Gemayel] to the
PLO, saying that "it symbolises the terrorist
murderousness of the PLO terrorist organisations and
their supporters".

A few hours later, Sharon sent the Phalange into the
camps. Reading that fax again and again, I felt a
chill come over me. There are Israelis today who feel
as much rage towards the Palestinians as the Phalange
felt 19 years ago. And these are the same words I am
hearing today, from the same man, about the same
people. Why? 







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