-Caveat Lector-

http://www.zmag.org/fiskbeating.htm

My beating by refugees is a symbol of the hatred and
fury of this filthy war

Report by Robert Fisk
in Kila Abdullah after Afghan border ordeal



They started by shaking hands. We said "Salaam
aleikum" � peace be upon you � then the first pebbles
flew past my face. A small boy tried to grab my bag.
Then another. Then someone punched me in the back.
Then young men broke my glasses, began smashing stones
into my face and head. I couldn't see for the blood
pouring down my forehead and swamping my eyes. And
even then, I understood. I couldn't blame them for
what they were doing. In fact, if I were the Afghan
refugees of Kila Abdullah, close to the
Afghan-Pakistan border, I would have done just the
same to Robert Fisk. Or any other Westerner I could
find.

So why record my few minutes of terror and
self-disgust under assault near the Afghan border,
bleeding and crying like an animal, when hundreds �
let us be frank and say thousands � of innocent
civilians are dying under American air strikes in
Afghanistan, when the "War of Civilisation" is burning
and maiming the Pashtuns of Kandahar and destroying
their homes because "good" must triumph over "evil"?

Some of the Afghans in the little village had been
there for years, others had arrived � desperate and
angry and mourning their slaughtered loved ones � over
the past two weeks. It was a bad place for a car to
break down. A bad time, just before the Iftar, the end
of the daily fast of Ramadan. But what happened to us
was symbolic of the hatred and fury and hypocrisy of
this filthy war, a growing band of destitute Afghan
men, young and old, who saw foreigners � enemies � in
their midst and tried to destroy at least one of them.


Many of these Afghans, so we were to learn, were
outraged by what they had seen on television of the
Mazar-i-Sharif massacres, of the prisoners killed with
their hands tied behind their backs. A villager later
told one of our drivers that they had seen the
videotape of CIA officers "Mike" and "Dave"
threatening death to a kneeling prisoner at Mazar.

They were uneducated � I doubt if many could read �
but you don't have to have a schooling to respond to
the death of loved ones under a B-52's bombs. At one
point a screaming teenager had turned to my driver and
asked, in all sincerity: "Is that Mr Bush?"

It must have been about 4.30pm that we reached Kila
Abdullah, halfway between the Pakistani city of Quetta
and the border town of Chaman; Amanullah, our driver,
Fayyaz Ahmed, our translator, Justin Huggler of The
Independent � fresh from covering the Mazar massacre �
and myself.

The first we knew that something was wrong was when
the car stopped in the middle of the narrow, crowded
street. A film of white steam was rising from the
bonnet of our jeep, a constant shriek of car horns and
buses and trucks and rickshaws protesting at the
road-block we had created. All four of us got out of
the car and pushed it to the side of the road. I
muttered something to Justin about this being "a bad
place to break down". Kila Abdulla was home to
thousands of Afghan refugees, the poor and huddled
masses that the war has produced in Pakistan.

Amanullah went off to find another car � there is only
one thing worse than a crowd of angry men and that's a
crowd of angry men after dark � and Justin and I
smiled at the initially friendly crowd that had
already gathered round our steaming vehicle. I shook a
lot of hands � perhaps I should have thought of Mr
Bush � and uttered a lot of "Salaam aleikums". I knew
what could happen if the smiling stopped.

The crowd grew larger and I suggested to Justin that
we move away from the jeep, walk into the open road. A
child had flicked his finger hard against my wrist and
I persuaded myself that it was an accident, a childish
moment of contempt. Then a pebble whisked past my head
and bounced off Justin's shoulder. Justin turned
round. His eyes spoke of concern and I remember how I
breathed in. Please, I thought, it was just a prank.
Then another kid tried to grab my bag. It contained my
passport, credit cards, money, diary, contacts book,
mobile phone. I yanked it back and put the strap round
my shoulder. Justin and I crossed the road and someone
punched me in the back.

How do you walk out of a dream when the characters
suddenly turn hostile? I saw one of the men who had
been all smiles when we shook hands. He wasn't smiling
now. Some of the smaller boys were still laughing but
their grins were transforming into something else. The
respected foreigner � the man who had been all "salaam
aleikum" a few minutes ago � was upset, frightened, on
the run. The West was being brought low. Justin was
being pushed around and, in the middle of the road, we
noticed a bus driver waving us to his vehicle. Fayyaz,
still by the car, unable to understand why we had
walked away, could no longer see us. Justin reached
the bus and climbed aboard. As I put my foot on the
step three men grabbed the strap of my bag and
wrenched me back on to the road. Justin's hand shot
out. "Hold on," he shouted. I did.

That's when the first mighty crack descended on my
head. I almost fell down under the blow, my ears
singing with the impact. I had expected this, though
not so painful or hard, not so immediate. Its message
was awful. Someone hated me enough to hurt me. There
were two more blows, one on the back of my shoulder, a
powerful fist that sent me crashing against the side
of the bus while still clutching Justin's hand. The
passengers were looking out at me and then at Justin.
But they did not move. No one wanted to help.

I cried out "Help me Justin", and Justin � who was
doing more than any human could do by clinging to my
ever loosening grip asked me � over the screams of the
crowd � what I wanted him to do. Then I realised. I
could only just hear him. Yes, they were shouting. Did
I catch the word "kaffir" � infidel? Perhaps I was was
wrong. That's when I was dragged away from Justin.

There were two more cracks on my head, one on each
side and for some odd reason, part of my memory � some
small crack in my brain � registered a moment at
school, at a primary school called the Cedars in
Maidstone more than 50 years ago when a tall boy
building sandcastles in the playground had hit me on
the head. I had a memory of the blow smelling, as if
it had affected my nose. The next blow came from a man
I saw carrying a big stone in his right hand. He
brought it down on my forehead with tremendous force
and something hot and liquid splashed down my face and
lips and chin. I was kicked. On the back, on the
shins, on my right thigh. Another teenager grabbed my
bag yet again and I was left clinging to the strap,
looking up suddenly and realising there must have been
60 men in front of me, howling. Oddly, it wasn't fear
I felt but a kind of wonderment. So this is how it
happens. I knew that I had to respond. Or, so I
reasoned in my stunned state, I had to die.

The only thing that shocked me was my own physical
sense of collapse, my growing awareness of the liquid
beginning to cover me. I don't think I've ever seen so
much blood before. For a second, I caught a glimpse of
something terrible, a nightmare face � my own �
reflected in the window of the bus, streaked in blood,
my hands drenched in the stuff like Lady Macbeth,
slopping down my pullover and the collar of my shirt
until my back was wet and my bag dripping with crimson
and vague splashes suddenly appearing on my trousers.

The more I bled, the more the crowd gathered and beat
me with their fists. Pebbles and small stones began to
bounce off my head and shoulders. How long, I
remembered thinking, could this go on? My head was
suddenly struck by stones on both sides at the same
time � not thrown stones but stones in the palms of
men who were using them to try and crack my skull.
Then a fist punched me in the face, splintering my
glasses on my nose, another hand grabbed at the spare
pair of spectacles round my neck and ripped the
leather container from the cord.

I guess at this point I should thank Lebanon. For 25
years, I have covered Lebanon's wars and the Lebanese
used to teach me, over and over again, how to stay
alive: take a decision � any decision � but don't do
nothing.

So I wrenched the bag back from the hands of the young
man who was holding it. He stepped back. Then I turned
on the man on my right, the one holding the bloody
stone in his hand and I bashed my fist into his mouth.
I couldn't see very much � my eyes were not only
short-sighted without my glasses but were misting over
with a red haze � but I saw the man sort of cough and
a tooth fall from his lip and then he fell back on the
road. For a second the crowd stopped. Then I went for
the other man, clutching my bag under my arm and
banging my fist into his nose. He roared in anger and
it suddenly turned all red. I missed another man with
a punch, hit one more in the face, and ran.

I was back in the middle of the road but could not
see. I brought my hands to my eyes and they were full
of blood and with my fingers I tried to scrape the
gooey stuff out. It made a kind of sucking sound but I
began to see again and realised that I was crying and
weeping and that the tears were cleaning my eyes of
blood. What had I done, I kept asking myself? I had
been punching and attacking Afghan refugees, the very
people I had been writing about for so long, the very
dispossessed, mutilated people whom my own country
�among others � was killing along, with the Taliban,
just across the border. God spare me, I thought. I
think I actually said it. The men whose families our
bombers were killing were now my enemies too.

Then something quite remarkable happened. A man walked
up to me, very calmly, and took me by the arm. I
couldn't see him very well for all the blood that was
running into my eyes but he was dressed in a kind of
robe and wore a turban and had a white-grey beard. And
he led me away from the crowd. I looked over my
shoulder. There were now a hundred men behind me and a
few stones skittered along the road, but they were not
aimed at me �presumably to avoid hitting the stranger.
He was like an Old Testament figure or some Bible
story, the Good Samaritan, a Muslim man � perhaps a
mullah in the village � who was trying to save my
life.

He pushed me into the back of a police truck. But the
policemen didn't move. They were terrified. "Help me,"
I kept shouting through the tiny window at the back of
their cab, my hands leaving streams of blood down the
glass. They drove a few metres and stopped until the
tall man spoke to them again. Then they drove another
300 metres.

And there, beside the road, was a Red Cross-Red
Crescent convoy. The crowd was still behind us. But
two of the medical attendants pulled me behind one of
their vehicles, poured water over my hands and face
and began pushing bandages on to my head and face and
the back of my head. "Lie down and we'll cover you
with a blanket so they can't see you," one of them
said. They were both Muslims, Bangladeshis and their
names should be recorded because they were good men
and true: Mohamed Abdul Halim and Sikder Mokaddes
Ahmed. I lay on the floor, groaning, aware that I
might live.

Within minutes, Justin arrived. He had been protected
by a massive soldier from the Baluchistan Levies �
true ghost of the British Empire who, with a single
rifle, kept the crowds away from the car in which
Justin was now sitting. I fumbled with my bag. They
never got the bag, I kept saying to myself, as if my
passport and my credit cards were a kind of Holy
Grail. But they had seized my final pair of spare
glasses � I was blind without all three � and my
mobile telephone was missing and so was my contacts
book, containing 25 years of telephone numbers
throughout the Middle East. What was I supposed to do?
Ask everyone who ever knew me to re-send their
telephone numbers?

Goddamit, I said and tried to bang my fist on my side
until I realised it was bleeding from a big gash on
the wrist � the mark of the tooth I had just knocked
out of a man's jaw, a man who was truly innocent of
any crime except that of being the victim of the
world.

I had spent more than two and a half decades reporting
the humiliation and misery of the Muslim world and now
their anger had embraced me too. Or had it? There were
Mohamed and Sikder of the Red Crescent and Fayyaz who
came panting back to the car incandescent at our
treatment and Amanullah who invited us to his home for
medical treatment. And there was the Muslim saint who
had taken me by the arm.

And � I realised � there were all the Afghan men and
boys who had attacked me who should never have done so
but whose brutality was entirely the product of
others, of us � of we who had armed their struggle
against the Russians and ignored their pain and
laughed at their civil war and then armed and paid
them again for the "War for Civilisation" just a few
miles away and then bombed their homes and ripped up
their families and called them "collateral damage".

So I thought I should write about what happened to us
in this fearful, silly, bloody, tiny incident. I
feared other versions would produce a different
narrative, of how a British journalist was "beaten up
by a mob of Afghan refugees".

And of course, that's the point. The people who were
assaulted were the Afghans, the scars inflicted by us
� by B-52s, not by them. And I'll say it again. If I
was an Afghan refugee in Kila Abdullah, I would have
done just what they did. I would have attacked Robert
Fisk. Or any other Westerner I could find.




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