EARTH MEANDERS
Ode to Madang
Yet another paradise lost?

By Dr. Glen Barry
January 19, 2010

Prime Minister Michael Somare of Papua New Guinea is ruling as a Mugabe like 
thug bent upon becoming a tin-pot dictator. Once a great man that led his 
country to independence, Mr. Somare is now using his “Grand Chief” status for 
corrupt personal, family and tribal gains – illegally and immorally allocating 
huge swathes of his great nation’s forest and marine resources without 
landowners’ prior and informed consent. On the bidding of Somare’s increasingly 
despotic and erratic leadership, Papua New Guinea’s (PNG) natural assets are 
being sold off to invading Asian business interests – destroying rainforest, 
ocean, water and land – as well as the resource and ecosystem rich nation’s 
future development potential.  Will one man – big man Sana or not – 
single-handedly destroy Earth’s third largest remaining contiguous old 
rainforest expanses for personal gain?

Nowhere is this more evident than in Madang Province, PNG, which contains some 
of Earth’s last remaining mostly intact tropical and marine ecosystems in the 
world. The “Jewel of the South Pacific” includes large ancient rainforest 
tracts, huge tuna and other fisheries, and barely explored mineral deposits; as 
well as beautiful, loving and peaceful people. Madang’s rainforests and oceans 
feed and house all its citizens, regulate national and regional climatic 
patterns, and make the Earth habitable by providing global ecosystem services. 
As Somare flits about in his new high-end private jet (who paid for that?) 
signing illicit business deals with Asian cartels and otherwise stealing Madang 
and the nation’s resources (including attempts to corner nascent carbon 
markets), Madang and PNG’s infrastructure including schools, hospitals, police 
and roads are in shambles. 

As Europe and the U.S. have and continue to do elsewhere, Asian over-developed 
countries are falling over themselves to liquidate Madang’s intact ecosystems 
as “resources” for “development” – though for who is unclear. One of Earth’s 
most richly endowed countries is being traded away for the equivalent of beads 
and trinkets, with many national’s basic needs continuing to go unmet. China, 
the Philippines and Malaysia are literally invading Madang, threatening to 
destroy this tropical paradise while realizing essentially all the gains and 
bearing none of the costs, for what amounts to a few months worth of Asia’s 
resource use. Asian business interests’ conduct is absolutely abysmal – relying 
on intimidation, violence and corruption to destroy local cultures, their 
habitat, and future sustenance. Corruption is at the root of PNG’s troubles and 
the government has been bought.

Nothing appears off-limits as Somare and cronies would sell the shirt off a 
villager’s back if it benefited well himself, his family and/or his tribe. 
Dodgy Filipino tuna interests want to build another tuna cannery along Madang’s 
special north coast? Why stop at one? Somare wants to give them ten, against 
local wishes, and to the same existing company long cited for allowing birds to 
crap in their tuna cans. China needs minerals including zinc to continue its 
ecocidal over-development that threatens to enslave and ultimately destroy 
being? Sure, take all you want without paying landowner royalties (we’ll figure 
out who they are later), and just dump those millions of tons of toxic waste 
untreated directly into Madang’s spectacular Astrolabe Bay. These atrocities 
are done in the name of development, allegedly to help materially lacking 
people enjoy a consumptive lifestyle including rice and tin fish. Yet we know 
it is simply common greed, and once completed, PNG’s indigenous peoples will be 
left in despair, destitute and dying.

And then there is the scourge of industrial liquidation of huge swathes of 
ancient primary forests for throw away consumer crap, at the expense of 
equitable and ecologically sustainable indigenous traditional living, and our 
shared ecosystems. Tragically, within the past couple years Rimbunan Hijau of 
Malaysia – violent, brutal sociopaths willing to stop at nothing to hack down 
millions of year old rainforests wherever found for ill-gotten, easy profits – 
has gotten their tentacles into Madang. Against provincial government wishes 
and with numerous other irregularities the Somare government granted a 158,000 
hectare (~375,000 acre) logging operation in the heart of the Ramu river valley 
– well placed to later access up to a million hectares of additional primary 
lowland rainforests.  Their tremendously damaging and illegal logging practices 
have commenced, referred to as “sustainable forest management” by the 
government and industry, the same language used to describe FSC’s certified 
logging supported by Rainforest Action Network and Greenpeace.

In fact, this and all industrial rainforest logging in PNG are illegal and 
ecologically devastating because there is no National Forest Inventory, or 
National Forest Plan; there has never been any evidence of sustainability for 
future generations; and logging activities are in breach of the Constitution 
and National Goals. But most shockingly, as a case before the PNG Supreme Court 
makes clear, Forest Management Areas (FMA) have been and continue to be 
acquired without clan landholders’ prior and informed consent, often even 
without their knowledge through forged signatures. In the Ramu, many clan 
leaders signed the agreement after being told “these are Michael Somare’s 
rainforests, and he wants them to be logged” – a Grand Lie from their Grand 
Chief. 

Exactly 20 years ago I fell in love with Madang, its peoples and PNG as a Peace 
Corps volunteer. I married locally and for over a decade I worked as a PNG 
rainforest activist – helping stop many dodgy timber deals. My tribe’s 
ancestral land lies in the Sogeram, the entry point to Ramu logging, and an 
area that has been partially logged. Recently, on the basis of a hand-shake 
with German NGO Rettet den Regenwald (Rainforest Rescue), I had the opportunity 
to have my personal expenses covered to research the situation, and to find 
local and international campaign opportunities, as we visited and holidayed 
with family. There have certainly been many adventures, successes and failures 
– some of which I will relate here.

For the past six months, in addition to Ecological Internet’s other activities, 
I have assisted in the founding of a new PNG rainforest campaign group called 
“Asples PNG” (people of PNG). Working in PNG is extremely difficult 
–prohibitively expensive cars and housing, incessant power outages, limited 
Internet, and very real personal security concerns. Yet speaking the language 
fluently, following closely local customs, and with my tribe as backup; I gave 
it all I had to stop these atrocious development policies. It took nearly two 
months just to get a house, office and Internet connection established – deeply 
stressing the patience of funders unfamiliar with the vagaries of PNG. EI’s 
first contribution was to help the very capable national staff of the leading 
local NGO campaigning against the tuna factories to internationalize the issue. 

By providing advice and other support, Ecological Internet was able to help 
local landowners in their struggle to shutdown Rimbunan Hijau in Madang Ramu 
Block I. Early on we became aware of an existing initiative by Ramu landowners 
to petition the government to revoke the FMA, and Sogeram landowners were 
actively pursuing against long odds having Rimbunan Hijau removed in court. 
Both groups of landowners were generally against logging if REDD carbon 
payments for intact forests were available, and if they could find funds to 
maintain a road to allow them to market their goods. Upon bringing this to the 
attention of the leading local NGO, it was decided given my family ties, I 
would be the primary liaison with landowners, and the local NGO would provide 
assistance for transport and modest legal expenses. 

In dozens of meetings with landowner leaders a three part strategy to end 
industrial logging in Madang was formulated. It stressed building coalitions of 
those against logging (though they may have differing views after that), 
stressed outreach to unemployed local youths whose jobs were being exported, 
and sought to empower landowners to retake control of their land which had been 
stolen from them. We patrolled the area, going directly to the scene of the 
logging, taking stunning pictures of ecological destruction and massive 
infrastructure that was clearly intended to log the entire Ramu [1]. And we 
informally carried out socially appropriate ecological and social justice 
awareness activities with thousands of local youths and community leaders, 
successfully seeking to broaden and deepen the movement. 

Things were looking hopeful as we were informed by Ramu landowners they would 
be imminently presenting their petition to government, and blockading and 
evicting the loggers themselves. These Ramu landowners had a petition of some 
70% of landowner leaders asking for the FMA to be withdrawn, and legal 
materials to legally pull out of the FMA were being produced courtesy of the 
local NGO and skilled attorneys. Then in early December, against all odds and 
before this plan unfolded, Rimbunan Hijau’s logging was stopped by court order 
by the Sogeram landowners’ court challenge. It was found that indeed the FMA 
had been illegally granted to Rimbunan Hijau by Somare’s government with 
massive irregularities. Together we had managed to facilitate the cobbling 
together of a strategy on the cheap to get the disease of industrial logging 
out of Madang before it became permanently entrenched. 

Then – demonstrating that indeed PNG is the land of the unexpected – in quick 
succession our effort suffered numerous though not necessarily permanent 
setbacks. Rimbunan Hijau has a proven methodology to put down dissent. In quick 
succession, idled loggers came to Madang and began terrorizing the town, 
including personally issuing me a death threat. Two youths guilty of minor 
theft against Rimbunan Hijau were rounded up by bribed and drunken police and 
shot at point blank range with M16 rifles in the leg, in a clear warning meant 
to silence the community. And then just before the penultimate moment when 
landowners were waiting for the simple legal documents to withdraw from the 
FMA, the the local NGO reneged on their promise to cover these minimum legal 
expenses (<$1000). It was up to me to give the landowners the bad news. A 
couple weeks later the international community failed to deliver upon REDD 
mechanisms to pay landowners to protect their forests.

Much hope remains as logging remains stopped, a considerable local and 
international protest movement has been built, and the basis is set for ending 
industrial primary rainforest logging in Madang and PNG permanently.  
Personally I did the best I could with limited resources to cobble together 
successes to date. My part as informal advisor and chief international 
cheerleader has left me $20,000 in debt. I became deeply frustrated as poor 
communication and unrealistic expectations meant I was rarely received funding 
on time, and am still owed for the last month of expenses.  I must admit, I 
lost my nerve and was frightened for my life, thousands of miles from home, not 
knowing who I could depend upon. Yet these primeval rainforests are my 
daughter’s birthright and these forests make all life possible, so you do what 
you can do. And this is only the beginning as Ecological Internet’s seeks 
funding for a prolonged local, national and international ecological 
information campaign on behalf of PNG’s rainforests.

I have a profound respect for local PNG rainforest and social justice groups 
that daily have to fear violence including constant harassment, physical attack 
and even targeted rapes. Yet sadly, the violence of the economic system and 
ruling elite has worked, leading to the resistance to Madang’s ecosystem 
destruction being fragmented, fragile and failing. Always the case with local 
NGOs, there is much territoriality, a reluctance to collaborate to build a 
movement, and lack of variety in tactics. Funding from foundations for staff 
paychecks remains the overwhelming concern, and thus elite foundations dictate 
the strategies and tactics. In PNG they have paid for NGOs to successfully 
pursue legal strategies to stop a project here or there, but it is inadequate 
and uncoordinated. Foundations are averse to risk, unconcerned with ecological 
sufficiency, and are providing inadequate resources for other campaign 
activities. 

With Earth perilously close to global ecological collapse because of past and 
ongoing ecosystem destruction, why is humanity unable to correctly value Madang 
and the other last precious ecosystems powering our shared biosphere? What does 
it say about the state of humanity and Earth that places like Madang continue 
to be destroyed? How can it be made known that continued industrial development 
based upon destruction of Earth’s last relatively intact ecosystems means the 
end of Earth? After 20 years of ecological education and activism, one thing I 
know for sure is that what is being done to date is orders of magnitude 
inadequate, and our shared survival depends upon escalating revolutionary 
protest activities on behalf Earth and being.

Madang’s rainforest and marine bounty could employ – through small and medium 
scaled community based ecoforestry and a local purse seine tuna industry – many 
of its citizens and country persons for perpetuity.  But there is no path to 
ecologically sustainable, equitable and just development for PNG that does not 
immediately end industrial scaled timber and tuna harvests. Otherwise PNG is 
just another has been rich country that wasted their wealth. The time has 
passed where any country can be said to be pursuing national advancement 
in-country or overseas by claiming destroying fisheries and old forests is 
somehow progress. Doing so in Madang ensures that these proud, independent 
people will be left as ecological refugees amongst a burnt over landscape and 
lifeless ocean. Ecological imperialism continues unimpeded.

For the sake of all of PNG’s people (and not just his tribe), Michael Somare 
must step down immediately, stop all efforts to have his son succeed him in 
office, and a new government must thoroughly review the timber and other 
resource project approvals granted under questionable circumstances. It is 
vital that a new PNG government commit itself to ending first time industrial 
logging of old primary forests, and ensure resource development advances the 
nation and its people as a whole. And China, as a totalitarian country 
practicing not communism, but autocratic capitalism, must be contained from 
utterly wreaking havoc upon its neighbors. In fact, by amply bribing Somare and 
violently stifling dissent, China is invading Papua New Guinea, making it 
likely the PNG will once again become a colony. But this time PNG’s religious 
beliefs, freedom of expression and ecologically sustainable livelihoods will be 
lost forever. 


[1] Papua New Guinea RH Ramu Logging 2009
http://www.facebook.com/ecointernet?v=photos#/album.php?aid=158287&id=84943913664

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