haha, still working on the athleticism, but i can safely say i like
adventure :)

On Mon, Mar 26, 2012 at 9:16 PM, Hardy <[email protected]> wrote:

> WOW!!!!!!! Unreal Man, can't wait to hear more about it!!!!
>
> Jacques, you are the Adventure athlete Extraordinaire :-)
>
> Amazing!!!
>
> On 26 March 2012 00:57, Jacques Booysen <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have a healthy obsession with volcanoes, mountains and the great
>> outdoors. Passionately curious of what the planet has to offer and of what
>> human beings are capable of. It all happened a few years ago when i did the
>> diagonal of fools on la reunion island and seeing the active volcano erupt
>> during the run, it was magic. Afterwards being curious of what other
>> volcano trail races existed, i stumbled upon a great report by Christian
>> Griffith's on a trail race named Feugo y Agua. Translated fire and water
>> from Spanish, it is a 100km wilderness run up two volcanoes on a remote
>> volcanic island in lake Nicaragua, central america (the piece joining north
>> and south america).
>> When i saw this race a few years ago i knew i just had to do this race no
>> matter what, by looking at this island on Google earth you will see what i
>> mean, it is quite unique. So i drooled over the lakes and volcanoes and
>> always had it in the back of my mind. The race was canceled last year
>> because of financial reasons, but the date was set for February 2012.
>>
>> Nicaragua is quite far from South Africa, so i added my own adventure to
>> the mix to make it worth going. I always wanted to fly somewhere far and
>> unknown and ride out of the airport solo with my mountain bike and explore,
>> and this was the perfect opportunity for me to make it happen. Nicaragua
>> lies on the pacific ring of fire and is bordered by Costa Rica on the south
>> and Honduras on the north, it has undergone periods of political unrest,
>> military intervention by the United States, dictatorship and earthquakes
>> but has reached a period of stability and are described as the safest in
>> the region. I did my research, and even though people tried to scare me
>> with all sorts of stories, they didn't manage to scare me. I was gonna see
>> for myself, armed with my mountain bike, running shoes, super potent bug
>> repellent, antibiotics and hammock, i was well prepared and on my way.
>>
>> So packed with the bare essentials like any adventure racer would as hand
>> luggage and only booking my bike as checked baggage on the airplane, i left
>> for two weeks traveling on the 4th longest nonstop endurance flight in the
>> world 17 hours directly to Atlanta with a slight detour near bermuda
>> avoiding a storm (these airplanes are amazing), so touching US soil for the
>> first time i connected to Managua Nicaragua with another 4hour flight. On
>> the connecting plane to Nicaragua, a German guy saw me stand out in between
>> the american missionaries with my South African passport, somehow he knew i
>> was not a missionary and not from the US, and seemed keen to chat, we
>> swapped seats and talked nonstop for 4 hours, what an awesome coincidence,
>> this guy turned out to be an epic German cartographer that has mapped large
>> parts of Nicaragua, central and south america and other parts of the world,
>> a true adventurer. I showed him my topographic map on my tablet pc and he
>> was impressed how well i was prepared and showed me the best way to get up
>> some of the volcanoes in the arch. On one of this mapping expeditions he
>> told me he traversed a large section of the volcanic arch on foot. His name
>> is Klaus Wiesner and he gave me one of his own maps he made of Nicaragua
>> for free, he said i needed it more, what a cool guy!
>>
>> Coming in over lake Managua for a landing at the capital with the same
>> name he showed me momotombo volcano (they actually have a geothermal power
>> plant there) and it's tiny offspring volcano inside the lake,
>> momotombito. This was very cool, and he told me that the US marines used to
>> do combat training there. We landed at the small but modern new airport in
>> Managua that lies on 11 seismic faults, in 1972 an earthquake occurred here
>> with a magnitude of 6.2 at a depth of about 5 kilometers beneath the centre
>> of the city. The earthquake and after shocks caused widespread damage,
>> among Managua's residents, 5,000 were killed, 20,000 were injured and over
>> 250,000 were left homeless. Even though no recent earthquakes took place
>> large parts of the city was never rebuild, and made the country even poorer.
>>
>> I booked into basecamp for my biking and running adventure, the best
>> western hotel opposite the airport after crossing the pan american highway
>> with Huge trucks like you see in trucker movies, hectic trucks, trucks you
>> want to avoid getting your bike close to. But my plan was to take back
>> roads and stay away from cars and experience the country from the top of my
>> seatpost in style. Double story buildings in Nicaragua are rare, and
>> because of the earthquake you can understand why. The settlements around
>> the airport and next to the hotel looked similar to the townships we get
>> here in south africa, very poor.
>>
>> So i mounted a small bike carrier on my seat post to carry the heaviest
>> stuff and took the rest  in a 40l backpack on my back, leaving my cardboard
>> bike box at basecamp. I had my GPS and had semi planned were i wanted to go
>> each night. It was quite a liberating feeling riding out there with my bike
>> into the unknown on dirt roads in a strange country that only speaks
>> Spanish, but i ended up having the time of my life experiencing tropical
>> living in one of the poorest and richest countries in the region. Poor
>> money-wise but rich in volcanoes,natural beauty, passion for poetry, art
>> and friendly people.
>>
>> "It's a dangerous business, Frodo, going out of your door," he used to
>> say.  "You step into the Road, and if you don't keep your feet, there is no
>> knowing where you might be swept off to."  ~J.R.R. Tolkien
>>
>> My goal was to get to the island Ometepe in lake Nicaragua in time to do
>> the 100km Feugo y Agua race and then cycle back, i ended up cycling more or
>> less 30km every day, taking it easy before the race, exploring and having
>> my own adventure.
>>
>> I cycled through very poor areas seeing very interesting landscapes,
>> interesting people and funny dogs along the way. A couple of nights i
>> stayed at a biological research centre inside the dormant apoyo volcano
>> crater with clear blue lagoon inside hosting Cichlid Fish found here and in
>> lake Malawi, i swam inside the lagoon most mornings, a very inspirational
>> place with awesome people running it. It was a little though for me to get
>> out of the crater with my loaded bike in the mornings but this place was so
>> awesome that it didn't even cross my mind. I also cycled past the active
>> volcano of masaya where i peeked inside the crater seeing the raw earth at
>> work, one night i went with a group to explore it at night, we went into
>> old lava pipes looking for vampire bats and found some, on our way out we
>> had a peek into the main crater to see the glow but were quickly
>> overwhelmed by the sulfur and quickly left the reserve.
>>
>> From the port of granada on lake Nicaragua that hosts fresh water bull
>> sharks, i took the weekly 2pm ferry witch was a 4 hour ferry ride to
>> ometepe, the twin volcano island on lake nicaragua. My bike was loaded with
>> the cargo and i spend most of the time in my ticket to the moon hamock
>> outside on the upper deck of the ferry hanging and seeing on my gps were i
>> was.
>>
>> We saw spectacular views of the island and the active volcano, la
>> conception when we arrived at altagracia just before sunset. Waiting for us
>> at the port  were locals with stacks and stacks of banana's or plantain
>> that would be exported off the island with the ferry continuing through the
>> night to the south of the lake. I got off and i managed to get my bike
>> after a while, and then there were nothing, no lights just a pitch dark 3km
>> road i knew i had to take to get to the little town from the
>> port according to my gps. Here after 100m i went over the handlebars with a
>> heavy backpack on my back after trying to turn on my red back light and not
>> looking, hitting a big rock my bike stopped and i bought land like we say
>> when you fall off your bike, it was quite funny, but i won't mind buying
>> real land there. Then out of nowhere locals on bikes came riding past and
>> trying to stay in my light as they had none or very basic lights, i must
>> have  looked like a spaceship to them with my gps and all my lights. My gps
>> helped me allot. All towns in Nicaragua are small, they basically have a
>> central plain surrounded by a few settlements. Altagracia was even smaller,
>> but i managed to find accommodation and eat something and get a nice nights
>> rest in a very basic room with a bed and a fan, this day was full of
>> adventure for me.
>>
>> The next morning i took some 16km of rough dirt roads directly to
>> mayogalpa riding next to la conception volcano, a near perfect cone-shaped
>> volcano,  mayogalpa is where i was gonna stay for 4 days while doing the
>> 100km fuego y agua ultra marathon, this is also where the race would start
>> the next morning. I settled into a room that looked like a converted horse
>> stable with a door, bed and fan.
>>
>> We departed in one of the chicken buses from the town of mayogalpa on the
>> island of ometepe to the Feugo y Agua race briefing. Chicken buses are
>> yellow america school buses found all over Nicaragua, locally decorated
>> and converted to transport people,chickens and basically anything. After an
>> awesome island style sunset and pre-race dinner we had the race briefing
>> and a traditional island dance show by the local ometepe children.
>>
>> Twenty 100km runners lined up at the 4am start, and then, boom! Fireworks
>> were shot into the air with sparks missing us by meters, giving us an extra
>> jump in our step and off we were.  Starting on the main road in mayogalpa
>> the road turned into dirt trails with bush tunnels making use of sections
>> of road, we were on our way to the malderas volcano on the other section of
>> ometepe by means of the narrow strip of land joining the two volcanoes on
>> the island, almost like a bridge. Even though it was early it was already
>> hot and humid.
>>
>> We ran on trails and a piece of black sand beach on the island bridge
>> section and missed the turnoff,  allot of runners got lost here, but by
>> using common sense and an detour through the forest, we eventually found
>> the path after losing a bit of time. Running though the true
>> wild banana forests was quite cool where after we reached the natural
>> springs. From here we followed the road on the other side of the island
>> bridge section next to a more white colored sand beach to the start of the
>> volcano climb at porvennir 31km into the race. At this stage i think i was
>> already dehydrated as i was drinking allot of water and sweating from the
>> heat and not getting in enough salt. Luckily they had salt tablets at this
>> aid station and i took a few with me.
>>
>> I followed a very rocky trail up to the start of the climb of the
>> malderas volcano and started heading up into the cloud forest where i heard
>> howler monkeys making freaky noises in the forest.  The higher you go up on
>> this volcano the more dense and humid it gets, the trail transforms from
>> always wet mesh of roots in nutrient rich soil into mud pools in a jungle
>> gym where you have to use all fours to pull yourself up the volcano on
>> strong tree roots. Cloud forests are green, growing, glowing gardens of
>> trees, ferns, orchids and mosses in an always cloudy or foggy atmosphere.
>> Climbing through these forests reminded me of the film "Lord of the Rings".
>> Movement was very slow and tiring here, but an awesome privilege to
>> experience. I reached the rim and descended into the crater, at the bottom
>> of the crater there is a  lake composed of rainwater and a natural spring.
>> It measures 300 by 250 meters, but with the fog one can see only about 50
>> feet across. This is 41km into the race, it was cold up here and I used the
>> aid station to get some food down and refill my water.
>>
>> Going out of the crater the forest became so dense at places, that you
>> would have to stop and figure out how you are going to get though this mesh
>> of moss covered roots, eventually you would spot the gap where you could
>> slide though. I have never seen strong dense roots with moss and forest
>> like this in my life, it was very cool. Coming down though the mud it would
>> drop steep at sections where you just had to hang on to roots and slide
>> down.
>>
>> I reached the bottom for the volcano at the 50km mark after 10 hours, 2
>> hours before cutoff. I had blisters from wet feet, i was semi dehydrated
>> and slow. Had a peanut butter and banana sandwich and hit the hot stretch
>> of dirt road leading to the other side of the island and volcano la
>> conception. At this stage 10 out of the 20 that had started the 100km had
>> dropped out for various reasons. I was last and slow, but i make the
>> cutoffs. It was probably my dehydration and blisters that made me so slow.
>>
>> As the sun set in an spectacular mushroom cloud over the volcano, i
>> headed for flor the start of the la conception climb, here i went though
>> local villages where my feet was starting to get very sore and i was
>> getting very slow but i was determined to finish. The music the locals
>> listen to here is exactly 15 years behind the rest of the world, so as i
>> was making my way to flor i had to listen to remixes of the
>> titanic soundtrack and other 1997 hits.   I reached flor, the  80k mark in
>> 17hours, and had 24hours to finish the race. Even though i was slow, i
>> wanted to finish even though i made the cutoff with just an hour to spare.
>>
>> At this checkpoint the race organizer informed me that he can't stop me
>> from going up la conception, but he wouldn't advise me to go at my current
>> speed, as it is very steep and can be very dangerous. So this is where i
>> ended up flipping a coin, a cordoba - nicaragua money with a triange on the
>> one side. If it would fall on the triangle i would go up to volcano, if not
>> it would stop here. It landed on the side without a triangle and this is
>> where my race stopped. It was an awesome race, and i would love to do it
>> again. So i did 80km in 17 hours and got a dnf, i enjoyed it and learned so
>> much and are not killing myself about the dnf. It is definitely an
>> experience of a lifetime i can recommend to any trail runner passionate
>> about mountains and nature to put on their bucket list, a though one.
>>
>> After the race i stayed on the island for a couple of days exploring it
>> on my mountain bike, whereafter i took the weekly midnight ferry to granada
>> where my bike was stacked between lots of bananas. I did some off the
>> beaten track exploring involving steep hike a bike sections, being chased
>> by dogs, fired upon with fireworks, and escorted by friendly locals on the
>> rim of the apoyo crater.
>>
>> I made my way back to the city of managua, and finished a
>> very successful adventure.
>> Jacques
>>
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