Here's the xmp file from my edit


On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 3:06 PM William Ferguson <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>
> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 1:55 PM David Vincent-Jones <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> My approach: If the exposure is 'within reason', start by applying one
>> of the presets; this will establish a curve based on the dynamic range of
>> the data. Then you can start to play with the finer points. I agree that
>> from the ground up filmic can be a tough nut to crack. Below the surface
>> filmic knows more about dynamic range than we know so relying on the
>> presets for the initial setting is important (IMO)
>>
>> David
>> On 2019-06-06 9:45 a.m., [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> Hi!
>>
>> I'm trying to use filmic instead of base curve, but I have to say:
>> It's not easy — which is not surprising, because I have never modified
>> the base curve before, so the slightest need for adjustments increases
>> the workload by an infinite factor, so no complaint here.
>>
>> So I'm going through a couple of images, disabling base curve and
>> tone curve, and try to get a pleasing result, not too far off my
>> original edit, with filmic.  Of course, I'm not expecting exactly
>> identical results, because if filmic is better or more correct by
>> whatever standard, it should be different.
>>
>> It sometimes works, but I tend to fail miserably.
>>
>> Here's an example: Version 0 is with base curve and tone curve,
>> version 1 is derived from that, replacing both curves with filmic:
>>
>> filmic is an alternative to base curve, so it gets the image to a place
> that the artistic edits can be applied.  In other words, it only replaces
> base curve.
>
>>     https://depot.s5k6.net/10n30MkVQWgAMWKO/
>>
>> To me, the terracotta flowerpot seems too red, the rusted steel on the
>> wooden barrel looks wrong, the wood seems to loose structure, and the
>> whole impression is not that sunny as it was on that day.
>>
>>
> Adjust the middle gray luminance until the terracotta is the color you
> remember.
>
>> This is not my first or only try with filmic on this picture.
>> Generally I fail to get the sunny impression, the rust and the wood
>> structure without oversaturating the terracotta.  I don't even get it
>> in the right ballpark.
>>
>> Any hints for a general approach?  Or where I've messed up in this
>> particular pic?
>>
>> I turn everything off, then adjust the exposure so that there is space
> between the histogram and the sides of the histogram window.  I start
> filmic and adjust the middle gray until the histogram is centered or my
> subject is exposed correctly.  Then I adjust the white and black to expand
> the histogram back to the edges.  I then adjust the contrast, latitude, and
> shadow/highlight balance until I get the best look I can.  If the image is
> really washed out, then I turn on the chrominance preservation and mess
> with the saturation sliders.
>
> At this point I can start doing edits with tone curve, color balance,
> etc....
>
>>
>> Just as a note, sometimes I don't end up with a curve in the filmic curve
> window.  One other note, sometimes base curve works better than filmic for
> certain images.  I was shooting sports (basketball in a gym) and tried
> processing with filmic, but couldn't get a good looking image, IMO, until I
> went back to basecurve.  When I shoot portraits, filmic usually is better
> than basecurve, but sometimes I've had to use basecurve, and other times
> I've used neither.
>
>> I've read the doc [1], and I have the subtle feeling that I'm missing
>> something: I don't know how to transfer the technical stuff to an
>> artistic problem.  And I've seen some videos, but I'm sorry to say
>> that I find them of little use.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Stefan
>>
>> ____________________
>> [1] https://darktable.gitlab.io/doc/en/tone_group.html#filmic
>>
>>
>> Bill
>
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>>
>

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