Additionally, if I start Emacs with --no-site-file --no-init-file, M-x
R is initially not a valid command, but if I do M-x
package-initialize, M-x R becomes available ... and still throws the
same error.  In that case, *Messages* contains

For information about GNU Emacs and the GNU system, type C-h C-a.
You can run the command ‘package-initialize’ with M-x p-ini RET
Type C-h m for help on ESS version 17.11
ess-tracebug mode enabled
load ESSR: + + + Error in file(filename, "r", encoding = encoding) :
  cannot open the connection
In addition: Warning message:
In file(filename, "r", encoding = encoding) :
  cannot open file ’/usr/share/ess/etc/ESSR/R/.load.R’: No such file
or directory

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