Additionally, if I start Emacs with --no-site-file --no-init-file, M-x R is initially not a valid command, but if I do M-x package-initialize, M-x R becomes available ... and still throws the same error. In that case, *Messages* contains
For information about GNU Emacs and the GNU system, type C-h C-a. You can run the command ‘package-initialize’ with M-x p-ini RET Type C-h m for help on ESS version 17.11 ess-tracebug mode enabled load ESSR: + + + Error in file(filename, "r", encoding = encoding) : cannot open the connection In addition: Warning message: In file(filename, "r", encoding = encoding) : cannot open file ’/usr/share/ess/etc/ESSR/R/.load.R’: No such file or directory