The system I had encountered the problem on had been freshly upgraded from
stretch. It turned out that while the GRUB *packages* had been upgraded, the
boot loader in the EFI system partition was still from stretch. I had to
explicitly
        grub-install --target=x86_64-efi

After this, things are booting fine. So: GRUB issue, fixed in buster (but
do pay attention to the version string on the GRUB menu screen at boot!)

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