There's another way to reproduce this, and I just found it the hard way. Something somewhere in the inscrutable defoma mess, or in grace, expects that /usr/lib/X11/fonts is a symlink pointing into /usr/share/fonts. If you have a system that predates this layout, you may well have an actual directory full of fonts there. Obviously some X11 upgrade should have taken care of this long ago, but failed to.
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