After looking for possible reasons (iptables, tc etc.), I found that the
usage count reported by the kernel corresponds exactly to the permanent arp
entries:
frank ~# ip neigh ls dev vpn0
10.0.0.22 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:07 nud permanent
10.9.0.33 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:12 nud permanent
10.0.0.24 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:09 nud permanent
10.0.0.5 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:02 nud permanent
10.9.0.37 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:16 nud permanent
10.9.0.35 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:14 nud permanent
10.0.0.23 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:08 nud permanent
10.9.0.30 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:0f nud permanent
10.9.0.32 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:11 nud permanent
10.9.0.34 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:13 nud permanent
10.0.0.29 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:0e nud permanent
10.0.0.27 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:0c nud permanent
10.0.0.19 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:05 nud permanent
10.9.0.36 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:15 nud permanent
10.0.0.28 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:0d nud permanent
10.0.0.26 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:0b nud permanent
10.9.0.31 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:10 nud permanent
10.0.0.25 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:0a nud permanent
10.9.0.38 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:17 nud permanent
10.9.0.39 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:18 nud permanent
10.0.0.21 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:06 nud permanent
10.0.0.17 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:03 nud permanent
10.0.0.20 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:01 nud permanent
10.0.0.5 lladdr fe:fd:80:00:00:02 nud reachable
Indeed, if there are less, the usage count is less, and if I remove all
permanent arp entries then I have no problem with restarting the gvpe
daemon.
Why this happens in the debian config but not in mine is interesting, but
this is likely an upstream bug with respect to (rarely used) static arp
entries.
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