I had the same problem with writer.  I tried all the suggestions above
and none worked.

I did some digging around and in '~/.openoffice.org/3/user' found the
file 'registrymodifications.xcu'.  Looking inside it, it seemed to
contains the name of the document I was editing etc.

So I renamed it to 'registrymodifications.xcu.old' and restarted writer.
Now I can enable and disable the display of invisible characters.

I hope someone finds this useful!

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/857041

Title:
  [Upstream] Nonprinting characters not showing in Writer

Status in LibreOffice Productivity Suite:
  Fix Released
Status in “libreoffice” package in Ubuntu:
  Fix Released

Bug description:
  When authoring, or viewing write-enabled document in Writer
  (LibreOffice 3.4.3 OOO340m1 (Build:302) ) the non-printing character
  symbols don't show on screen.

  Ctrl-F10 toggles toolbar icon OK, but to no effect on screen.

  I'm running Ubuntu AMD64 Oneiric (beta) with Nvidia proprietary driver
  active.

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