I found out what triggers this issue!

This happens when I restart (by killing it) unity-settings-daemon as a
workaround to infamous bug 1731294.

And now I see that there is a workaround to the workaround.

After killing unity-settings-daemon (which restarts automatically),
which leaves Nautilus all screwed up with its crappy font, its stupid
random beep sounds, and its unusable mess of menus, I have to kill every
last running instance of Nautilus (it's not enough to close all nautilus
window, you need to kill the one responsible for the Desktop), and
restart it. Then it works as expected.


Note that, even though this surfaces as a consequence of a workaround to issue 
1731294, this is an issue on its own: restarting unity-settings-daemon 
shouldn't leave a running instance of Nautilus in a crippled state. Either 
Nautilus should restart automatically if necessary, or it shouldn't be affected 
in the first place.

I don't know whether this is unity-settings-daemon's fault or Nautilus'
fault, but  it's certainly not expected behavior.

** Summary changed:

- Ubuntu patches to nautilus get randomly reverted again and again
+ Restarting unity-settings-daemon screws up Nautilus settings, needs Nautilus 
restart

** Description changed:

+ UPDATE: see comment 2
+ 
  From time to time, these two bugs resurface, which were fixed ages ago:
  
  https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/nautilus/+bug/1130722
  https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/nautilus/+bug/1731985
  
  and also: the font type and/or size in Nautilus changes to a smaller and
  less readable font.
- 
  
  The three things always reappear at once.
  
  Then everything goes back to expected; I'm not sure if that's when I get
  some new updates installed or when I just reboot.
  
  It seems to me that all these issues are things that got changed
  upstream in Nautilus, but patched in Ubuntu because Ubuntu maintainers
  have some more common sense than the Nautilus developers.
  
- I don't know if 
+ I don't know if
  (a) sometimes someone forgets to apply some patches, and an unpatched version 
slips into Ubuntu's packages until somebody corrects it, or
  (b) some configuration gets randomly lost/changed and then restored/changed 
back on reboot.
  
  Either way, it's f***ing annoying.
  
  ProblemType: Bug
  DistroRelease: Ubuntu 16.04
  Package: nautilus 1:3.18.4.is.3.14.3-0ubuntu6
  ProcVersionSignature: Ubuntu 4.4.0-135.161-generic 4.4.140
  Uname: Linux 4.4.0-135-generic x86_64
  NonfreeKernelModules: nvidia_uvm nvidia
  ApportVersion: 2.20.1-0ubuntu2.18
  Architecture: amd64
  CurrentDesktop: Unity
  Date: Sat Sep 15 18:25:09 2018
  GsettingsChanges:
-  b'org.gnome.nautilus.window-state' b'sidebar-width' b'190'
-  b'org.gnome.nautilus.window-state' b'geometry' b"'1044x767+374+165'"
-  b'org.gnome.nautilus.list-view' b'use-tree-view' b'true'
-  b'org.gnome.nautilus.list-view' b'default-column-order' b"['name', 'size', 
'type', 'date_modified', 'date_accessed', 'owner', 'group', 'permissions', 
'mime_type', 'where']"
+  b'org.gnome.nautilus.window-state' b'sidebar-width' b'190'
+  b'org.gnome.nautilus.window-state' b'geometry' b"'1044x767+374+165'"
+  b'org.gnome.nautilus.list-view' b'use-tree-view' b'true'
+  b'org.gnome.nautilus.list-view' b'default-column-order' b"['name', 'size', 
'type', 'date_modified', 'date_accessed', 'owner', 'group', 'permissions', 
'mime_type', 'where']"
  InstallationDate: Installed on 2013-10-11 (1799 days ago)
  InstallationMedia: Ubuntu 13.04 "Raring Ringtail" - Release amd64 (20130424)
  SourcePackage: nautilus
  UpgradeStatus: No upgrade log present (probably fresh install)

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/1792722

Title:
  Restarting unity-settings-daemon screws up Nautilus settings, needs
  Nautilus restart

Status in nautilus package in Ubuntu:
  New

Bug description:
  UPDATE: see comment 2

  From time to time, these two bugs resurface, which were fixed ages
  ago:

  https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/nautilus/+bug/1130722
  https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/nautilus/+bug/1731985

  and also: the font type and/or size in Nautilus changes to a smaller
  and less readable font.

  The three things always reappear at once.

  Then everything goes back to expected; I'm not sure if that's when I
  get some new updates installed or when I just reboot.

  It seems to me that all these issues are things that got changed
  upstream in Nautilus, but patched in Ubuntu because Ubuntu maintainers
  have some more common sense than the Nautilus developers.

  I don't know if
  (a) sometimes someone forgets to apply some patches, and an unpatched version 
slips into Ubuntu's packages until somebody corrects it, or
  (b) some configuration gets randomly lost/changed and then restored/changed 
back on reboot.

  Either way, it's f***ing annoying.

  ProblemType: Bug
  DistroRelease: Ubuntu 16.04
  Package: nautilus 1:3.18.4.is.3.14.3-0ubuntu6
  ProcVersionSignature: Ubuntu 4.4.0-135.161-generic 4.4.140
  Uname: Linux 4.4.0-135-generic x86_64
  NonfreeKernelModules: nvidia_uvm nvidia
  ApportVersion: 2.20.1-0ubuntu2.18
  Architecture: amd64
  CurrentDesktop: Unity
  Date: Sat Sep 15 18:25:09 2018
  GsettingsChanges:
   b'org.gnome.nautilus.window-state' b'sidebar-width' b'190'
   b'org.gnome.nautilus.window-state' b'geometry' b"'1044x767+374+165'"
   b'org.gnome.nautilus.list-view' b'use-tree-view' b'true'
   b'org.gnome.nautilus.list-view' b'default-column-order' b"['name', 'size', 
'type', 'date_modified', 'date_accessed', 'owner', 'group', 'permissions', 
'mime_type', 'where']"
  InstallationDate: Installed on 2013-10-11 (1799 days ago)
  InstallationMedia: Ubuntu 13.04 "Raring Ringtail" - Release amd64 (20130424)
  SourcePackage: nautilus
  UpgradeStatus: No upgrade log present (probably fresh install)

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