Thanks for all the suggestions. Unfortunately none of them quite work for me. The Nokia770 isn't a PDA, and trying to make it into one doesn't seem worthwhile to me. The Nokia E61 is indeed a great looking phone, but it (or any GSM phone) won't work in the Washington Metro tunnels, which I need. But I hope some perfect solution will come up soon, given that this is such a rapidly changing field (that is, except for Verizon's exclusive contract with Metro through 2009....)
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