Ok, I don't know if this is idiomatic Restlet, but I solved the issue by doing 
this:

@Override
    public Restlet createInboundRoot() {
        getMetadataService().addExtension("x-java-serialized-object+gwt",
                MediaType.APPLICATION_JAVA_OBJECT_GWT);
...

And annotating the ServerResource method with:

@Get("xml|x-java-serialized-object+gwt")
...

Tracing org.restlet shows the right converter is selected, XStreamConverter or 
GwtConverter respectively.

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