The new prototype is coming along nicely. I've now placed most of
the components. Besides rfkill acting as system-kill, the design
seems to be free from embarrassing mistakes so far.

Top view, without OLED:
http://downloads.qi-hardware.com/people/werner/anelok/tmp/brd1-top-0818.jpg

Top view, with OLED:
http://downloads.qi-hardware.com/people/werner/anelok/tmp/brd1-oled-0818.jpg

Bottom view:
http://downloads.qi-hardware.com/people/werner/anelok/tmp/brd1-bot-0818.jpg

Cheat mode alert: the memory card holder isn't soldered. There are
a number of traces that pass underneath it and I'm a bit concerned
that it may short them. If that happens, fixing it would be somewhat
messy. So I'll keep that experiment for later.

The ugly mess of colored wires should of course disappear.

Side view:
http://downloads.qi-hardware.com/people/werner/anelok/tmp/brd1-side-0818.jpg

Note that the two boards (main and battery) will not be at the same
height, so there won't be the sort of huge empty space this picture
suggests. 


You may wonder why it's taking me so long to put together the board
this time. After all, this is something that should take a day or
two, not weeks. The reason is that I'm also measuring the system's
idle current (and sometimes other parameters) when adding a new
component.

This is to make sure that any troublemaker I may add will be found
quickly, not after it can hide comfortably in the company of a dozen
other equally untested components.

The list of current measurements begins here:
https://gitorious.org/anelok/anelok/source/0be9a73015cf8ada190d8d6b568bacab94717c91:fw/2014/main.c#L51

So far, things look reasonable. The poorly fitting VUSB diode D1
costs about 1.2 uA, but this can be improved. When disabled, the
boost converter draws about 1.5 uA more than expected. Not sure
why.

The FETs gating power to display and memory card work well, despite
measurements that look horrible. The trick there is to look at the
system current and not at the the leakage current. Since the FETs
have very little leakage (less than 100 nA), the latter basically
floats and picks up noise from the air.


The overall result so far is that idle current with only the RTC
operating is below 6 uA. I have yet to try to make the capacitive
sensor work in low-power modes, but I think it should be possible
to stay below 10 uA on average, allowing Anelok to sit in a drawer
for something like two years on a fresh CR2032 cell.

Of course, once you turn it on, power consumption jumps up by a
factor of about 1000. But that's the next part of the story ...

- Werner

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