Thanks for the hint.  Here's what worked for me:

class Toppings:
    ...
    class META:
        admin = meta.Admin(ordering=('_order',))
        order_with_respect_to = 'pizza'

and now the orderings seem to work.

... but (and there's always a but, huh?) now on an individual topping
edit page the pizza is blank (just a plus icon to create a new pizza).
I'd created these toppings as part of the create pizza and they show up
on the pizza edit page.  I must be missing something...

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