It's possible to wiggle a timing belt past the crank pulley without removing it, and considering that the puller you need is not always easy to obtain, this is preferable.
> > Basically how much of a bear is this procedure on this car? (assume > > experience level of about 4 on a 1-5) With air tools and a solid plan of action, it isn't too bad. If you're the normal DIYer, this will take 4 or 5 hours. It took me much longer the first time through, but I ran into problems with rusted fasteners, etc. I also made the mistake of thinking the crank pulley had to come off, and it took me several hours to get that done. > > Tools needed? Any special tools? If you plan on pulling the crank pulley, you'll need a Chrysler-specific puller with a special dowel pin that goes into the bolt recess of the crank. The ones they have at AutoZone are incorrect--the arms on the puller aren't long enough to get the necessary angle required to engage the hooks on the end. Some have gotten by this by grinding the arms, something you can't do with borrowed tools. I had to make up a "Frankenpuller" out of two different ones to get something that worked. Then I realized I could work around the crank pulley. If you don't have a torque wrench (I recommend a clicker-style) you need to get one. I have two, one in foot-pounds and one in inch-pounds, I think I used both on this job. A vice or a large (6" or 8") c-clamp to compress the tensioner spring. A piece of hardened steel (an allen wrench will work) to hold the tensioner back as it's being installed. > > > > Tensioner assembly replacement needed? > > Replace the pulley, the tensioner is expensive (>$100) and probably okay. > > Any tensioner tightening marks? No, tension is applied by a special part. As long as it's torqued to specs the belt tension will be correct. > > > > Where are the cam and crank alignment marks, or how do they need to > > be aligned? There are marks on the rear timing covers and on the camshaft sprockets which align. There is a similar pair of matching marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the engine block. I recommend you align the engine with the old timing belt still on, and try not to move anything while you're working. It is possible to do so. > > > > Any tricks to this particular application? > > > > Anything else that I forgot to ask but may be relevant... You'll have to remove the crossmember, cooling fans, and preferably the radiator. The thermostat is mounted on the driver's side of the engine below the head, and is difficult to access, but it should probably be replaced at the same time. Unfortunately, this will take you significant time to do, but if you're at the 100K mark, it's time for the original coolant to be replaced (use only the correct Mopar-recommended coolant! Not Dexcool or "green stuff".) The condensor can remain in place, but protect it with a piece of cardboard. Change all the belts and hoses while you're at it. Forget about a Chilton's manual, by the way. The only acceptable book is the FSM, or a visit to Allpar (possibly your local library has a subscription you can access for free.) If you wish to read about what can happen when your luck turns bad on this job, visit my blog: http://geoffsroom.blogspot.com/2005/05/2nd-generation-lh-cars-water-pump.html > > Also, does the auto transmission in these cars have: > > 1. band adjustment procedure like Dodge RWD? No. It's an electronically-controlled hydro-mechanical transmission. There are no bands. > > 2. An aftermarket pan avaliable with a drain plug? No, but I have developed a solution to this as well: http://geoffsroom.blogspot.com/2003/09/pumping-out-transmission-fluid.html --Geoff > > > > Thanks in advance. If you all can think of any particular things to > > > > be on the look out for when looking at the car, please let me > > know...Thx in advance, > > > > ///Gene > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! 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