I recommend that you invest $8 in a mechanic's stethoscope at your local
parts store.  Use it to hunt down the true source of the noise.  You might
find it is the idler pulley instead of the alternator.  Belt dressing should
NEVER be used on these vehicles.  Just don't.

If you find that the noise is from the alternator, it is a relatively simple
repair, although a bit time-consuming.  Disconnect the negative battery jump
point attachment and secure it so that unintended contact cannot be made.
Remove two "jack screws" per headlight (T-25, IIRC), and pull the headlamps
out.  If you are careful, you can allow the headlamp assemblies to dangle
from their wires. Mark the location of the crossmember that fits across the
radiator, paying special attention to the location of the hood latch should
you elect to remove it.  Remove all of the bolts securing the cross member,
including the one that attaches the cruise control servo and the washer
fluid filler.  Using a screwdriver, pry loose the fasteners that secure the
front bumper cover to the cross member.  Remove the cross member; you might
get away with just pivoting it by rolling it forward...

Down below the alternator on the driver's side of the engine is the
serpentine idler pulley.  Loosen the bolt that goes through the center of
the pulley itself, then loosen the adjustment screw that is perpendicular to
the pulley's axis.  Remove the serpentine belt.

The alternator is secured via a bracket in the rear (15MM) which attaches to
the engine.  I usually loosen the engine side and remove the bolt from the
alternator side.  There is both an upper and lower bolt securing the
alternator; these go in through the front.  Loosen and remove.  Next, remove
the connections from the back of the alternator.  You should now be able to
remove and replace the unit; reassembly is the simple reverse of
disassembly.  You will have to re-align the hood once you've got the cross
member back on; pay attention to the relative size of the gaps on either
side between the hood and the fenders; a little tweaking one way or the
other and you should be able to equalize the size of the gaps.

Incidentally, this alternator tends to be a little pricey, and rebuilding it
yourself isn't too difficult if you have access to an impact wrench to
remove the nut securing the pulley.  You might find a local rebuilder who's
willing to sell you a kit.  Failing that, I'd recommend you take it to a
local rebuilder instead of buying an alternator from a place like Auto Zone,
their stuff is of questionable quality when it comes to rebuilt components.

If it hasn't been done in the past two years, I'd recommend replacing both
the serpentine belt as well as the A/C belt; make sure you get the CORRECT
A/C belt; there are two part numbers that will fit.  I destroyed a Gates
belt that wasn't designed for the high-torque application here; Goodyear's
"heavy duty" replacement has held up fine.  And it goes without saying that
now would be a prime time to replace the coolant, hoses and thermostat while
you're in there should it need attention.  Make sure you follow the correct
procedure for removing the air bubble from the cooling system if you decide
to do this.

--Geoff

On 11/12/06, djthms42 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone.
> My 98 ES has devewloped a high pitched whine which appears to be
> coming from the area of the alternator. I've used belt dressing but it
> does nothing to stop it. Has anyone any expereience with this type of
> problem? Is there a description anywhere of replacement technique?
>
>
>
>
>
> Web: <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dodge_intrepid>
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-- 
--Geoff
MML Moderator/Admin/Website Admin/Map Keeper
'92 Acclaim; '98 Intrepid; '03 Grand Caravan
http://www.moparmailinglist.com
Gizmo Project (Free VOIP): ggariepy68


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