Thats the problem I havent got the money to "do it right" LOL
But does somehow have a link for the repair manual especially a blown up 
diagram of the 3.5 high output engine?

that would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Bill


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "buzzy" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 11:03 PM
Subject: Re: [dodge_intrepid] help request with possible intrepid purchase


Bill...These engines have a timing BELT...the water pump gets changed (calls 
for
it anyway) when the timing belt does..at 100K/7 years i believe..we did ours 
at
95K...these are great cars...minor crap like inner tie rod ends (garage will
tell you rack and pinion ng) but it is just the bushings...also the 
clockspring
set up bites....other than that great...i really am not to fond of the idea 
of
the timing belt as it is an interference engine..i have seen a couple 3.5 
ruined
because of overheating...myself i would spring for the money and do it
right...these are great cars....good luck...cheers buzzymx45




________________________________
From: Bill Higgs <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, August 24, 2012 10:52:54 PM
Subject: [dodge_intrepid] help request with possible intrepid purchase


It might be one of the dumbest ideas I have had, but there is a 2002 mint 
black
on black intreped rt w 3.5 sho engine. for peanuts,

problem is the engine has a bad knock, which I am assuming is a spun rod
bearing.

here is what I know and was told abvout the vehicle

the knock is definatley in the lower engine, when its starts at idle the 
knock
is barely noticeable accelerate and the knock is load, when the engine warms 
up
the knock quites right down for a while

I was told a saleman was driving on the highway, the engine overheated and 
rod
was knocking, vehicle was towed it, and there it sits, it is now available 
for
400 bucks

I dont know if the overheat was due to the rod or something else like 
waterpump
maybe??

how can I tell , I see no sign of water in the oil so I assume the head 
gasket
is ok
is the water pump on this engine internal?
easy to replace if it is pooched?

since the rod can be accessed with the oil pan removed, is it possible to 
open
the rod end (ssuming its only one) and put on a new split bearing?

even if the crank is scored somewhat, would this not work? I maybe put on 
8000
miles a year.

any help and suggestions appreciated..

Thanks

Bill Higgs

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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