Re fuel lines Looking at an older H35 I notice they entended with solid line where it comes through the fire wall (behind exhaust) up to RH side at ledge. Then looked at H36 II and from the forward of battery in cabin to the same position near the ledge on RH side. Then it goes short flexible line to fuel pump. (photo if you wish)
Re canopy pins to fuse in only H36 (H36 II is different) I did not like the ware in glass on fuse and rather than fill with gloaa flock yet again I routed it out and fitted a small flush aluminium striker plate. I chose aluminium rather than steel as would be softer than pin. It is bigged in with small counter sunk screws (photo available if you wish) Re H36 II canopy You must put say a copper wire stop at the correct position for the canopy to open to stop handle to go into jettison position. This could be serious. Rear rear windows I had shits with the the rear windows and cracks then noticed HK 36 has glass inserts in this place. Thus made mould off HK 36 and made solid insert. Much cooler trust me. *Also noticed HK36 (same fuse as H36) had NACA air inlet ducts. So I added same with a ball in the inside. Hugely better venting. I did get the multi gas tester and less than 5PPM CO on both sides. It is so good I did away with those expensive pop out mecaplex windows. Did to motorfalke as well.* *A friend got some BUS SHADE from ebay and is the stuff you see on buses for advertising. I am going to put above my head.* *I add thin 3m black prop tape to the tip BUT I pink the edges before I put it on and replace each year or 100hrs. Keeps prop like new.* *For 35years now I have always used Airsafe quick oil drain. The rotax just takes the std 12 mm Rotax one. With Limbach I use same one and have AC welder weld onto a VW plate and have at angle. Every lycoming this valve comes standard. You can change the oil in your Sunday best. Great one off mod. Airsafe valve has 2 O rings and thus never known to fail except life of O rings is life of engine (2000hrs they say).* *Final one is if using inline filter (H36 II has Gascolator which I prefer) consider a Cooper USA inline filter and fit Brass or aluminium 1/8 inch barbs in their metal fittings. They have metal ends with a fine gauze filter (you should not use paper filters in Aviation I am told) and clear and NO PLASTIC.* The earlier H36 have handle to lift canopy horizontal but later ones are angled up. Thus cut old handles off then down to Aircraft welder and he made an angle to socket into what remained in canopy frame. I glued it in place with JB weld epoxy. Now just like later H36 angled up. * I have added lifters to canopy on outside in various motorgliders.* The access to brake fluid reservoir is now held in place by Velcro with now some locator pins instead of screws. Means can be checked in 20 sec. Years ago when tank was out I got welder to add aluminium flange to the deepest part of tank. Then added a bung and a wooden dip stick and can check tank properly. I hate not having a dip stick as I hate relying on fuel gauge. With wheel I weld 6mm nuts on the plate and then drill holes for lock wire in the bolts. I put a cut around front of engine and made a flange on the back of it and is held in with anchor nuts and 10/32 bolts. The Factory make the flange on the fuse and this becomes external cover. Sauer at factory when fitting Sauer 2500 to H36 cut out and add flange to the part that has been cut out. They must do this to access oil filter which on RH side crank case. With this mod engine can be removed in about 2 hours. Undo carbs stuff, 4 engine bolts and then truss at front of engine which you how have access to. It comes out complete with exhaust attached. *I add a Jabiru type collection bottle in oil breather line. I make out of small energy can and glass the outside of case. I always check at oil change time and it gives you an idea where oil is going to. If a lot (like many Jabiru) then you may have a ring issue. * *I always now record what I do to tappet adj in log book and will show a trend in a cylinder. Same with differential compression check. * Double check your throttle is not going too far forward. Notice sr no 3505 has a stop at end of travel. The paint the factory now use is International Reaction Lacquer which is available world wide. *Think I told all before how to start with low battery. Just have an outside person to position the prop just after the click of impulse the press button and it gets a run up before the next compression and just may well start. Never sit there pressing the button near the compression as this will never start in my opinion. * That's all I can think of for the moment . Ian McPhee
