I covered the entire forward face of my oil cooler with aluminum tape, with good results. Oil temps are now good (90 C) during climb out and full power cruise (80C)at OAT -5C However, during descent and approach my oil cools to the Red Zone and the motor stalls during flare. Whilst this is good practice for glider landings, it is distracting and spoils smooth landings as I suddenly have an airbrake/prop. I have adjusted my idle speed up (approx 1300 rpm) to keep things turning with a cold motor, but this is annoying during taxi. Would insulating the oil cooler, as Ian suggests, help? Perhaps using non flammable fibre mat? How about aluminum tape over the back side of the oil cooler ? I am nervous about cutting off the heated airflow to the carbies and consequent carby icing.
Thanks all, Tom On Thu, Nov 16, 2017 at 5:19 AM, Nigel Baker <ni...@limbachaustralia.com> wrote: > > Foil tape yes it is alloy. > > Corrugated Plastic absolutely no it is flammable. > > NOTHING FLAMMABLE SHOULD BE ADDED UNDER THE COWLS WITHOUT FIRE SHIELDING. > > That sort of advice lays a path to litigation when it all turns bad. > > Every action in maintenance needs sound justification and in accordance with standard workshop practice. > > Always consider the ramifications if you deviate from that standard path. > > If you don’t understand the path then don’t do the work. > > If you buy your hardware for aircraft maintenance from Bunnings Aerospace (especially crap stainless stuff including cable, turnbuckles etc) you are setting yourself up for a very big fall. > > To operate and use methods and materials outside of what is approved is wracked with danger. Especially if you don’t have the engineering background to understand the difference. > > Nige. > > > > > > > > From: dog@lists.riverland.net.au [mailto:dog@lists.riverland.net.au] On Behalf Of Ian Mc Phee > Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 2:06 PM > To: DOG LIST <dog@lists.riverland.net.au>; Laurie Hoffman < lozhoff...@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Low oil temps in the cold New England air. > > > > I use some plasticc corridated cardboard (like realestate signs) and burn holes with soldering iron. If you have direct drive 240° needle movement temp gauge (no 12volt) these can badly underread. They may need heat transfer paste in the sender (2 parts) The 12volt units with 80° needle movement are more accurate but lack low down temps. > > > > Ian McPhee > > +61 428847642 > > Box 657 Byron Bay NSW 2481 > > Australia > > > > On 12 Nov 2017 13:24, "Laurie Hoffman via dog" <dog@lists.riverland.net.au> wrote: > > Hi Tom, > > > > We use some good quality heavy duty aluminium adhesive tape to wrap around that part of the oil cooler that suits the bient conditions in winter. > > > > Best Regards > > Laurie > > > > > > > > > > > > On Sunday, 12 November 2017, 9:55:22 am GMT+10, Michael Stockhill < sto...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > Hi Tom, > > > > I would certainly block off part of the oil cooler. Back in the day on our trainers in Montana we had factory plates to do just that in winter. > > Likely that you could block the whole thing. > > > > I put a Lynx ADS B/transponder in my Dimona last month. Just got the rebate check today, but it wiped out my allowance for the year. > > > > MLS > > > > On Nov 11, 2017 3:32 PM, <kristinnow...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hi all, > > > > I’m thinking of covering up the front face of the oil cooler as we are seeing persistently low oil temps barely off the redline even with the engine at full throttle (prop in cruise) given how cold it is around here now (-7C). Maybe fabricate an aluminum plate and safety wire in place? Any thoughts suggestions advice.? > > > > Tom > > > > Sent from my Windows 10 phone > >
