Hi All,

OK…. The tailwheel shimmy is fixed. Here are the details for your information.

We jacked up the rear fuse so didn’t need to bend down so far.

Took off the tailplane and rudder.

Found there was some “play” with the connection from the rudder cables down to 
the tailwheel itself.  Which I think was a combination of the ruder cable 
bracket (at the top of the tailwheel shaft) and the bearings down to the 
tailwheel (which was VERY loose)

So the castellated nut (holding the shaft in place) removed and tailwheel assy 
removed totally.

A close inspection of the tailwheel fork assy (it was a sprung type) was 
interesting. The 2 rubber blocks were bot hcompressed and quite solid

But the more interesting thing was the pivot bearing system (a tube with an 
inner tube being the bearing)  was SEIZED SOLID

It obviously had been in that state for a number of years.

We tried all kinds of devious methods to unseize that pivot but totally not 
successful  … heating it, etc but it was like it was welded.

SO … we cut the 2 joints of the pivot “bearing”, made up a solid inner shaft. 
Basically using the original Rusted in bearing tube as the new bearing surface  
Turned up a spacer to”fill in” the hacksaw gap made in order to separate the 2 
sprung tailwheel apart 

Fitted the solid inner shaft using a lot of grease 

Drilled a hole in one end of the new inner solid shaft and used an original 
thru bolt to secure it.

Replaced both rubber compression blocks  (happened to have a couple of better 
ones in stock)

Cleaned the tailwheel shaft roller bearings as best as possible and regreased 
both  (there are 2)

Checked the lower ball bearing and regreased it a well.

Put all together again and made sure the castellated nut at the top of the 
tailwheel shaft was as tight as possible so it would provide some resistance 
(but not too much)

Lock the nut,  make sure the 2 * bolts holding the cable bracket also was as 
tight as possible.

Replaced the rudder and tailplane 

Re lockwiring the 2 rubber shock external mounting bolts and the rudder cables 
( includes the bottom rudder bearing)

Test flight …. All working as it should   woohoo.

 

Best regards

Ian Williams

ZK-GCB and ZK-GCD

New Zealand   

 

 

From: Ian Williams <[email protected]> 
Sent: Wednesday, 2 July 2025 9:00 am
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Master brake cylinder

 

Yep I’m thinking about that. Also the cable steering bracket on top of the 
tailwheel shaft maybe loose.

Sent from my iPad





On 1 Jul 2025, at 21:46, Kristin Nowell <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:



The tailwheel shimmy might also be a loosening in the bearing set that holds 
the tailwheel fork - quite a lot of pieces to the assembly !

 

On Tue, Jul 1, 2025 at 4:42 PM Kristin Nowell <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

If your brakes still work it might be the reservoir or associated tubing 
leaking (?) The tubes stiffen over time, and the reservoir becomes brittle.

 

On Tue, Jul 1, 2025 at 10:12 AM Ric Sutton <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

Hi Gyozo.

Depending on where its leaking from it may be easily repairable.

Mine (dimona mk1) was leaking from the park brake valve portion of  the master 
cylinder. if memory serves me correctly I replaced the o-rings on that valve 
and it was good to go.

cheers

ric

  _____  

From: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>  
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > on behalf of 
Laurie Hoffman via dog <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> >
Sent: Tuesday, July 1, 2025 2:13 AM
To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>  
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> >
Subject: Re: [DOG mailing list] Master brake cylinder 

 

We found that tightening the steering cables rectified bad shimmy on the 
straight shaft tail wheel. 

Although the suspension tailwheel with the rubber blocks still shimmied badly 
after that 

I suspect it might be related to softening (or hardening?) of the blocks over 
time that may be involved.

With the super Cub we found keeping it highly inflated helped a lot on sealed 
surfaces which would have been due to less tread surface making contact with 
the bitumen I think.

The other possibility is a slightly bent vertical shaft due heavy landings and 
thus throwing the geo.etry out. There is a hell of a lot of load on the 
tailwheel on landing particularly on rough ground.

Laurie 

Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer 
<https://mail.onelink.me/107872968?pid=nativeplacement&c=US_Acquisition_YMktg_315_SearchOrgConquer_EmailSignature&af_sub1=Acquisition&af_sub2=US_YMktg&af_sub3=&af_sub4=100002039&af_sub5=C01_Email_Static_&af_ios_store_cpp=0c38e4b0-a27e-40f9-a211-f4e2de32ab91&af_android_url=https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.yahoo.mobile.client.android.mail&listing=search_organize_conquer>
 

 

On Tue, Jul 1, 2025 at 8:15 AM, Ian Mc Phee

<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

Over inflation can start it - we have rubber shock version. 

 

Ian McPhee 

+61 428847642 

 

On Mon, 30 June 2025, 20:03 Ian Williams, <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

Hi all, 

I have just had an interesting flight in a Dimona at Swansea in the UK.  … 
operating on a sealed strip

Had real bad tailwheel shimmying on landing

The tailwheel asst is one of those rubber sprung types

Any ideas the best approach to fix the prob

 

Ian W

In uk but normally New Zealand

Sent from my iPad





On 21 Jul 2022, at 13:02, pattoninfl.aol.com <http://pattoninfl.aol.com>  via 
dog <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

 

Gyozo, 

 

It's a master cylinder used in Piper Cherokees. I replaced mine about 1 year 
ago.  I bought mine from a aircraft junkyard here in the US.

 

Regards,

Bruce Patton



-----Original Message-----
From: Győző Horváth <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> 
>
To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> 
Sent: Thu, Jul 21, 2022 2:55 am
Subject: [DOG mailing list] Master brake cylinder

Hi,

 

It seems that there is a leakage at master brake cylinder of my Dimona. The 
belly is full with brake fluid, however the brake still works well. Do you have 
experience with it? Is it a Cessna cylinder? What kind of parts should be 
ordered for repair and do you know the specifications and source?

 

With many thanks and best regards

Gyozo

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