I use 4130 .058 wall welded joints, double bolts. To really do it right a
plug (AL) could be put in the inner tube so the bolts would be on something
solid.
-----Original Message-----
From: Justin Mace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Monday, May 25, 1998 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: DFLY: Eliminating the aileron motion changer
>
>>Those of you who eliminated the motion changer and ran the aileron torque
>>tube all the way back to the wing drag bulkhead, did you also convert the
>>multiple tubes inside the center console into a single tube that runs from
>>CS-7 and CS-8 back to the aileron belcrank into a single 3/4" tube, or did
>>you leave the multiple tube reduction contraption in there? I can't for
>>the life of me figure out why I need 3 different tubes. 4 different
joints
>>can't be as reliable as having only 2. Can anyone clear that up for me? I
>>realize it means enlarging the 5/8" holes in the phenolic bearings to
3/4".
>> Am I missing something?
>>
>>Also, can I substitute 6061-T6 tube in place of the 2024-T3 that is called
>>for?
>
>
>Dave, I ran 2024. Rex Taylor wanted to check the system out. We went
>flying and at 140 mph indicated Rex told me to look back and see if I could
>see the aileron come up when he bumped the stick. Wellllll, he more than
>bumped the stick, he slamed it to full deflection and back in an instant.
I
>told him I didn't see the aileron. He said that he was afraid of that.
The
>aluminum had touque wind up. I installed 3/4" .035 wall 4130. We did the
>same test and this time I did see the aileron come to the top. Needless
to
>say I have got a new perspective on the DF control system and some of the
>things that you will never think of when making changes.
>
>Install what ever you like, my choice if I were to do it again would be
>4130.
>
> Justin
>
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