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Hi John,
I just restored an R4A that isn't humming yet but
that cap gets
very uncomfortably warm (and is bulging) and am
working on a
substitute. There are a few other electrolytics but with a 100
and 200 uf section on the power supply I'd think it was most suspect.
I've seen nothing new or old stock to match
it. Even if NOS caps
were available it's likely they'd also fail
shortly. I've "rolled my own"
in a Heathkit and starting on an AC-3 by cutting
the base off with a
hobby razor saw and installing discretes.
It's pretty easy except
for this one. It's a physically small can
with 200/100/100/20 uf @
200v. With discrete electolytics coming in
160v and 250v it would
be much safer to go with the 250v. But there
is no way they will fit.
2 100/160v in parallel and a 22uf/250v fit a
similar can perfectly
side by side with room for 2 more 100/160v on a
second deck.
But with B+ at 160v using 160v
electolytics is a little uncomfortable
even though I'd like to think they were
underrated.
Tried to fit 100uf/250v in just the electrolytic
paper covers alone
and they work out to be about 1/8" too short though
they fit
side by side fine, but no shielding.
Next attempt will be to try using a section of
1-1/2" I.D. aluminum
tubing that should slip right on the old
base. To make it "pretty"
I got to find a way to cap the end. Wish I
had a TIG welder...
Not as OEM looking it may be a PC board disk
fitting the I.D.
and using the foil inside as a common
ground.
Anyone could comment on the comfort factor of using
the 160v
caps in place of the 200v (on a 160v B+
line)?
73,
- Mark K9MRK
(off to the hardware store,
again...)
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- [drakelist] R4B hum John_K7FD
- Re: [drakelist] R4B hum Mark Lakomski
- Re: [drakelist] R4B hum Al Parker
- [drakelist] R4B hum - 99.9% solved John_K7FD
- Re: [drakelist] R4B hum - 99.9% solved Ron Wagner
- Re: [drakelist] R4B hum - 99.9% solved Garey Barrell
- Re: [drakelist] R4B hum - 99.9% solved Mark Gilger
- RE: [drakelist] R4B hum Gerry
- Re: [drakelist] R4B hum Kc9cdt
- Re: [drakelist] R4B hum Al Parker

