Hi John,
 
I just restored an R4A that isn't humming yet but that cap gets
very uncomfortably warm (and is bulging) and am working on a
substitute.  There are a few other electrolytics but with a 100
and 200 uf section on the power supply I'd think it was most suspect.
 
I've seen nothing new or old stock to match it.  Even if NOS caps
were available it's likely they'd also fail shortly.  I've "rolled my own"
in a Heathkit and starting on an AC-3 by cutting the base off with a
hobby razor saw and installing discretes.  It's pretty easy except
for this one.  It's a physically small can with 200/100/100/20 uf @
200v.  With discrete electolytics coming in 160v and 250v it would
be much safer to go with the 250v.  But there is no way they will fit.
2 100/160v in parallel and a 22uf/250v fit a similar can perfectly
side by side with room for 2 more 100/160v on a second deck.
But with B+ at 160v using 160v electolytics is a little uncomfortable
even though I'd like to think they were underrated. 
 
Tried to fit 100uf/250v in just the electrolytic paper covers alone
and they work out to be about 1/8" too short though they fit
side by side fine, but no shielding.
 
Next attempt will be to try using a section of 1-1/2" I.D. aluminum
tubing that should slip right on the old base.  To make it "pretty"
I got to find a way to cap the end.  Wish I had a TIG welder...
Not as OEM looking it may be a PC board disk fitting the I.D.
and using the foil inside as a common ground.
 
Anyone could comment on the comfort factor of using the 160v
caps in place of the 200v (on a 160v B+ line)? 
 
73,
- Mark K9MRK
(off to the hardware store, again...)
----- Original Message -----
From: John_K7FD
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 1:53 AM
Subject: [drakelist] R4B hum

Hmmm....no make that hummm...
 
I just purchased a B line...unfortunately the R4B has a bad case of hum. Is it the big Can that needs replaced or some other electrolytics? Is there any source for these or am I dead in the water?
 
Thanks
 
John K7FD

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