Hi Don:

I missed K7FD's post, so I don't know what he described.  Let's work with
your observations.

Your transmitter's meter is indirectly showing you plate current.  If you
have a "pegged meter" and no drive, that's not good.  Of course, you knew
this already. ;-)

"The relay does not stay open" means the relay must then be closing or
pulling in (it 'clicks' when you power on the transmitter).  Is this so?  If
so, then something is keying it.  If apparently nothing is keying it, and
nothing else is attached to the rig, turn the power off.  Check vox gain and
anti-vox controls.  Turn vox gain completely CCW.  See if transmitter still
keys itself.  If so, pull the 6EV7 tube.  Try replacing this tube and see if
the transmitter still "phantom keys."

The T-4X series needs a bias voltage of -45 to -65 volts from the AC-3 or
AC-4.  You say your supply is putting out a bias of -20 to -55 volts.. This
sounds to me that your bias voltage may not be negative enough, which could
be why you have gobs of idle current.  As the grids approach 0 volts, the
tubes will begin to conduct.

To check the bias supply, I would do the following:

1)  Isolate the power supply from the rig and unplug the power supply from
AC mains.

2)  Check R5, R6 and R7.  If R5 has gone low, so will your voltage.

3)  Break the connection at the cathode of D7 and check it.  Could be this
is weak and that's the reason someone installed the larger caps.

4)  If you found no problems at this point, check both sections of C5.  I
wouldn't worry too much about the exact value here.  The larger capacitance
will knock down more ripple and stiffen the supply.

But, that doesn't mean you don't have a problem with them.  Sometimes
capacitors check fine in a static or low volts DC check, then breakdown at
high voltage ( in this case, -65 volts) or under load.

4)  If the supply checks good, set R6 to its maximum, then reconnect the
supply to the transmitter and AC mains.

>From this point on, you're making voltage checks so remember to stay safe.

5)  With a load connected to the transmitter RF output connector, turn the
transmitter on.  Leave xmtr gain low.  The transmitter should not be keyed
and you should not have any plate current indicated.  If it is keyed or you
have indicated current, turn the transmitter off.

6)  Verify the bias voltage.  Check between pins 9 and 6 (or pin 9 and
chassis) of the power supply Cinch-Jones connector on the rear apron of the
transmitter.  When you power on the transmitter, you should see the maximum
bias volts of -65 volts or so.  If not, a tube or component failure in the
transmitter may be bringing the supply low.

The bias supply goes to several circuits in the radio, not just the PA.
Check the 6EV7 tube first (controls VOX and relay driver).  These go flaky
all the time.  V1 (half of it is the AGC amp) would be another one to check.

Good luck.  Let the list know how you made out.

73,
Russ
WB8ZCC



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 12:30 PM
Subject: [drakelist] T-4XB idling current revisited


> When powered up, my T-4XB is showing high (pegging the meter) idling bias
> current in a similiar manner as that described by K7FD.  The relay does
stay
> open.  Bias voltage from the AC-4 is a little low at -20 to -55.  The
schematic
> for the PS calls for a two stage electrolytic cap at C5 with values of 20
mfd
> and 150 volts in each stage.  My AC-4 has two stages of 40 mfd and 150
volts at
> C5. This cap appears to be an original.  The rest of the components are
the
> same as in the schematic.  I'd like to replace C5, and would like to know
> whether it would be better to go with the 20 mfd value called for in the
schematic,
> or use the 40 mfd. value.  I have a pair of 22 mfd. 160 volt caps as well
as a
> pair of 47 mfd 250 volt caps, so I could go either way.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Don McNallen
> W5EI
>



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