I've had good results with some of the pre-wash detergents, ie: Spray'n wash, Clorox Stain out, etc...... Just spray it on full strength and use a small paint or cleaning brush to get the tight spots . Wait a few mins. then wipe off using damp sponge, (hot water). Then final clean with rubbing alcohol .... (Faster dry time) and doesn't leave residue like 409 ! Always test painted surfaces !!
TNX Joe N4EWS ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gene McCalmont" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Richard Holder" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 3:38 PM Subject: RE: [drakelist] Cleaner for Equipment > > Hello Dick; > Your question is one of the more frequent questions that pops up on both > this and the Collins CCA reflector and it almost always generates > considerable commentary. Suggestions range from putting the gear in the > dishwasher for a cycle to taking it to the carwash... although I would NOT > recommend the carwash approach. You might like to search the Drake archives > for some of these very informative discussions. > > Most of the old hands suggest using a mild biodegradable soap/detergent > solution (such as Simple Green) and a bit of agitation of the contaminated > surfaces with a soft brush. Follow that with an immediate GENTLE rinsing > using fresh water, followed by repeated washings until the nicotine and tar > residue is removed to your satisfaction. Dry the gear at low temperature > (some suggest an oven at a very low temperature setting) or by placing the > unit in a clean area and circulating air through and across the chassis for > several hours using a common fan. Before any current is applied to the gear, > it must be completely dry... COMPLETLY DRY means no moisture anywhere. > > There has been a lot written about the caustic nature of even the mildest > soap/detergent and even Simple Green can tarnish aluminum if left in contact > with the surface for any extended period of time. The rule of thumb here is > to use repeated gentle washings followed by gentle rinsing along with the > application of considerable patience. Then let the gear completely dry > before continuing with other service activities, such as lubrication of all > the switches and controls. As you mentioned, the wafer switches deserve your > close attention. > > Smoke residue is one of the most difficult contaminants to remove but it can > be successfully accomplished given some time and patience. If you get in a > hurry, you are likely to damage something that previously worked. > > Good luck with your projects; > Gene > > W5DDW > Gene McCalmont > 270 Oakridge Road > Argyle Texas 76226 > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Richard Holder > Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 12:25 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [drakelist] Cleaner for Equipment > > > I have just purchased a Drake set of rigs, R-4C, T-4XC, AC-4, MS-4, and > FS-4. > > <snip> What would the best cleaner > be? > > <snip> > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body > Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body > Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ ----------------------------------------------------------------------
