My TR-7 is back in line and working again. Thanks to all for the suggestions
and especially to K4OAH. I followed Garey's instructions first and that did
the trick. Thanks again for the help.
Terry, W8NJR
In a message dated 12/8/2008 12:27:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Jim Shorney wrote:
> On Mon, 08 Dec 2008 08:11:35 -0800, GrampZ wrote:
>
>
>> Yep, I've had the exact same problem and Garey is right on the money
>> with a cure. In fact after about 2 years my rig has developed the same
>> problem and I have to do this again.
>> I stumbled on the fix myself the first time when recalling my radio
>> tech friend's cure for many Yaesu FT-101 problems was pulling the boards
>> and cleaning the contacts with a common eraser.
>>
>
> I've had this problem as well, mostly manifested as an annoying
> intermittent with one of the DR7 connections. I think I have finally
> resolved it with sparing application of DeOxit to the contacts. Don't
> use the spray, I got the applicator bottle with the needle tip.
>
> My "new" R7A had a problem of a little different sort - one of the pins
> on the parent board had a small blob of solder right at the very end,
> which had slightly deformed the socket contact when the board was
> inserted. I suspect this was a very rare occurence, but may be
> something to watch for. After I removed the solder from the end of the
> pin, I unsoldered the receptacle from the circuit board and was able to
> remove the contact from the connector shell and re-form it into shape.
> It's working fine now.
>
>
One other problem of this nature is the solder on the long pins of the
DR-7. There is quite a bit of stress on these soft-soldered
connections, and they are subject to the solder cracking. This is not
always visible so reflowing these connections is a good preventative
and/or possible repair if temperature or mechanical pressure causes DR-7
misbehavior.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>
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